tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5363182717809481412024-03-25T12:02:57.321-04:00Build Naturally...Blog...practical information on natural building materials & techniques...Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.comBlogger31125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-32209061330521769722017-06-05T16:36:00.001-04:002017-06-05T16:37:57.110-04:00Building a Door Stop for A Cob OvenHere's an instructional video on how to build a nice lip around your door opening. The lip gives you a stop for your door and helps prevent heat loss when the door is closed.<br />
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<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-69338187690156705952014-01-17T16:12:00.003-05:002020-12-08T20:56:43.745-05:00Adobe Floor Basics - How to build a dirt cheap floor<div class="MsoNormal">
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Seems crazy, right? A dirt floor, of all things! Well, time for a perception shift...</h2>
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Adobe floors are lusciously beautiful and quite durable. And best of all, in most regions they can be made from local clay soil. (Which makes them dirt cheap...sorry, couldn't resist.)</h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtPi9_aVN2HLsIRZT1JslMQxZqKLASKy7e4Z2VHzJWOJM6-mOTzCFFshXdSP8AZlc6SZnxXtizIzGxQBD2qp2g9vTtcSMM874wREMg_NfK_MsOQ0mecnJJVemJrr2FfXBQVi_k0HX_NMM/s1600/BTR-dragon+niche.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPtPi9_aVN2HLsIRZT1JslMQxZqKLASKy7e4Z2VHzJWOJM6-mOTzCFFshXdSP8AZlc6SZnxXtizIzGxQBD2qp2g9vTtcSMM874wREMg_NfK_MsOQ0mecnJJVemJrr2FfXBQVi_k0HX_NMM/s1600/BTR-dragon+niche.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">adobe floor in a strawbale cottage in WV</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Concept</span></h2>
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An adobe floor, or earthen floor, relies on the sticky binding properties of clay...one of the most versatile building materials I know of. Clay expands when wet, creating sticky platelet particles, like a bunch of suction cups. Add to the clay ample course sand, to increase compressive strength and control shrinkage as the clay dries. Finally add fiber, to increase tensile strength and knit everything together, like reinforcing bar in concrete. The finish mix is essentially the same as adobe or cob. And the installation is similar to a concrete slab, only without the environmental impacts or cold nature of cement.<br />
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What I describe below is the method I use to install an adobe floor. It is by no means the only method! I recommend reading with the intention to gain an understanding of the concept...the function that each layer serves. This way you can adjust and experiment while being sure to include the primary functional characteristics (most particularly to keep moisture out of the floor).<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Layers</span></h2>
A typical adobe floor includes a build-up of layers, each with a purpose. I describe each layer below, including the function it serves and (in some cases) alternatives you can experiment with. This example demonstrates a floor installed "on grade", similar to a concrete slab. You can also install the adobe on a framed floor, but be sure to stiffen the joist framing to minimize flex, otherwise your floor will crack over time. There are a variety of methods for building up the floor layers, from single pours to multi-layered finishes. I am sharing a basic version that is conceptually similar to pouring a concrete slab. I find that this system performs extremely well and is very forgiving to install.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32MEG1cdiRxa_dS2VDlkbBjyxS3zoGlIzNN_m7npEaL0BjVVj7kOkltB1svP70BC1IYmieTICE-R6jJwFBDAOzFHhxA9KKtax28IEkvsHnccAmMyglgGYhoQ5ZyF_IS_j5NlAMtroTsww/s1600/AF-layers-edited-medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32MEG1cdiRxa_dS2VDlkbBjyxS3zoGlIzNN_m7npEaL0BjVVj7kOkltB1svP70BC1IYmieTICE-R6jJwFBDAOzFHhxA9KKtax28IEkvsHnccAmMyglgGYhoQ5ZyF_IS_j5NlAMtroTsww/s1600/AF-layers-edited-medium.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">sketch of adobe floor layers</td></tr>
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So, starting from the bottom up...<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">#1: The substrate</span></h4>
You want your floor to rest on solid ground (or a stiff framed floor with little flex). If you have movement below, it means cracks up above. So you want structurally strong, compacted earth to build on. The ground should be free of topsoil or high organic matter, since the organics will continue to decompose and shrink in volume over time, leaving you with voids below your adobe floor. So dig down until the soil feels solid and compact. You may even want to go over the ground with a hand tamper to ensure compaction.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">#2: The capillary break</span></h4>
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Next you install several inches of gravel to provide a capillary break that prevents any potential liquid water in the ground from rising up into the floor. I use 4-6" of pea gravel or angular 1-inch stone. If you live somewhere where pumice is commonplace (or any insulating mineral/rock), you can substitute the pumice for the stone & the insulation (#4), since the pumice will provide both qualities.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#3: The vapor barrier</span></h4>
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Next you lay a vapor barrier that covers the entire floor area. This provides your final moisture control for the adobe, blocking any air-borne vapor (from evaporated ground moisture). I use 6 mil polyethylene sheeting for this, exactly what is used to prepare a concrete slab. The plastic is obviously not natural, but it's excellent insurance.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#4: The insulation</span></h4>
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This is probably the layer that is most often left out, but it can dictate the energy performance & your comfort level. If you live in an exclusively hot climate, then you can skip the insulation, because a cool floor is beneficial. But if you heat your building at all...at all...then you want to keep the heat inside. If you do not have insulation below your floor, then you are, in effect, heating the endless thermal mass of the ground below. I use R-10 insulation for a typical floor and bump up to R-15 if the floor will have radiant heating in it. You want that heat to follow the path of least resistance into your space, not down into the ground. And you need that insulation to be non-biodegradable, otherwise it will compost under your floor and disappear over time, leaving you with a cracked & heaving floor. This is one place where I will use rigid foam, since the reduction in energy over time quickly offsets the impact of the foam manufacture. For a natural alternative, you can use a rigid insulating mineral, such as pumice or perlite.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">vapor barrier (black plastic) with insulation above</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#5: The base layer</span></h4>
<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">I do a 2-layer adobe floor, mostly because this allows me to </span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">pour the thick base layer before the exterior walls are completely closed in. That extra air-flow speeds up drying time (and eliminates a highly humid interior later in construction). I use the same proportions I would for cob, which is generally 15% to 25% total clay plus 75% to 85% concrete sand. The difference is that I add lots more water. With cob, the wetter your mix, the more your cob wants to splooge on your walls, so it prevents you from building higher until the material dries. However, with a floor, you want to be able to pour it, like a really thick liquid. (I use about the consistency of chocolate pudding.) If I am using clay soil from the site, I sift it pretty large...through a 1/2" screen is fine. To this mix, you want to add long fiber, and lots of it. The fiber knits the floor together and helps prevent cracking in the clay. I use straw, since it is abundant in my region.</span><br />
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><b>The process for laying this layer is pretty simple.</b></span><br />
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<li>make a batch of your mix</li>
<li>place the mix at the farthest corner of your floor, where you are going to begin</li>
<li>make sure you have height reference points in place (such as a perimeter beam or braced ledger boards)</li>
<li>roughly pack the mixture into place, being sure to push into any corners or voids (you can literally throw the adobe into the corners to be sure you get good fill); make sure your material is filled a bit higher than you want your finished layer to end up</li>
<li>level the floor with a long, straight 2x4 by holding each end of the board on your ledgers (so you know your height) and then shimmy the board back-and-forth while pulling slowly toward you (the longer your leveling board, the more hands on deck you need to shimmy it); as material builds up in front of your board, it makes it more difficult to move the 2x4, so simply stop, scrape the excess out of your way, and carry on</li>
<li>then let the floor dry completely (and don't let it freeze until it is 100% dry)</li>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Note that it is perfectly normal to get some sprouting in your floor as it dries. Do not be alarmed if this happens! It's just seeds from your straw confusing your floor for a garden. As soon as the floor dries, the sprouts will die, leaving behind some additional fiber reinforcing from their root structure.</span></div>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Another option for this base layer is to make adobe bricks. You are using the same exact mixture but placing it in forms and then letting the adobe dry out in the sun. The benefit here is that you can carry on with construction, without having to wait for a thick, wet floor to dry so you can walk around unimpeded. Once your bricks are dry, you lay them like patio pavers in a layer of sand, tamping them to level as you go.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6DBAgVfP_95SOuE-sFpDAcw7A6pxqd360qnbq-3L3fAg8NWahdbU0w9AqaaqT61XVvYUizAADxYQxrCaI-SS74_yGLIfZq9bTRAZs89Fa4Rgy5tb7_-CbLO30P0bBN8nCOjz6eRDvN0k/s1600/BTR-WO-AF1-leveling+a+long+spot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg6DBAgVfP_95SOuE-sFpDAcw7A6pxqd360qnbq-3L3fAg8NWahdbU0w9AqaaqT61XVvYUizAADxYQxrCaI-SS74_yGLIfZq9bTRAZs89Fa4Rgy5tb7_-CbLO30P0bBN8nCOjz6eRDvN0k/s1600/BTR-WO-AF1-leveling+a+long+spot.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">leveling the adobe with a long, straight 2x4</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwbw1oAdtehBMq3pDrYztb3lcqrsNO1HMjiAsl_LNnPhmf-5wEHCue6ILTEx8YOz0YojmGawFL9MSzzYTXXP-tep1xrMdavXATDu79HyqNOImR5QXri6LlFL893BymUa0hhb8LXRFBmV9/s1600/BTR-WO-AF1+level.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="331" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwbw1oAdtehBMq3pDrYztb3lcqrsNO1HMjiAsl_LNnPhmf-5wEHCue6ILTEx8YOz0YojmGawFL9MSzzYTXXP-tep1xrMdavXATDu79HyqNOImR5QXri6LlFL893BymUa0hhb8LXRFBmV9/s1600/BTR-WO-AF1+level.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this first layer just needs to be level, but it can have pock marks<br />
(this 550 SF floor took 1 day for about 15 people to install)</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">#6: The leveling layer</span></h4>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">There are a few approaches you can take for this layer. What I do is float this layer smoooooth and then polish it as it hardens. Some people float this layer reasonably smoothly, and then apply a super thin layer for the desired texture. The benefit of polishing this layer as your finish floor is that you avoid the extra step of additional layers. The benefit of applying a thin final layer is that it's easier to control the texture of a thin coat than it is to control the texture of a thicker poured floor. So you can decide which is less stressful to you... But either way, the goal of this layer is to end up with a floor that is level (and if it's your finish, then level & smooth). In the first layer, small imperfections are not a concern, but this layer is what you will see for years to come.</span></div>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">This second layer uses the same adobe mixture as the base layer, with two modifications:</span><br />
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<li>if using clay soil from the site, I sift it a bit finer...I use 1/4" screening for this layer</li>
<li>any straw in this layer should be chopped to 1" or shorter</li>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Why these changes? Because smaller particles allow you to float the floor to a finer finish. I don't always use straw in this layer of the floor, since it will show in the finish surface and not everyone wants/likes that look. If you eliminate the straw, then it is absolutely crucial to get the ratio of clay to sand perfect. To do this, make some test patches of your floor and see how they dry. If they are crumbly and weak, there is not enough clay. If they crack, there is not enough sand.</span></div>
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<span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><b>The process for laying this layer is as follows.</b></span></div>
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<li>make a batch of your mix, making sure that it is fairly creamy; wet it just enough so that when you hold a handful flat in your hand it keeps a mounded shape until you vibrate your hand slightly, then it flows like a liquid</li>
<li>make sure you have height reference points in place; I use screed boards that are the same thickness as the floor I want to install (for example, I use a flat 2x for a 1-1/2" thick floor)...see photo below</li>
<li>start at the farthest corner of your floor (and work your way out toward an exit path), and work in swaths that you can easily reach without over-extending your body</li>
<li>roughly pack the mixture into place, being sure to push into any corners or voids (you can literally throw the adobe into corners to be sure you get good fill); make sure your material is filled a bit higher than you want your finished layer to end up</li>
<li>use a very straight 2x4 (or 2x6) that is long enough to touch 2 of your screed boards, push down to create firm contact with the screed boards, and then shimmy your board side-to-side to level the floor; as material builds up in front of your board, simply stop, scrape the excess out of your way, and keep going; the floor shape should be pretty level, but you may have some voids here and there</li>
<li>I then use a wood float or a magnesium float and fine-tune the surface; add little bits of material if you need to fill any voids, and just keep working the surface until it is level and reasonably smooth (see photos below for examples of what it will look like)</li>
<li>your final pass while the floor is wet is with a flexible pool float; this will bring a bit of water (and with it, clay) to the surface and allow you to really make the surface look pretty; but don't go over the surface too much here, or you will bring too much clay to the top and the floor will crack as it dries</li>
<li>continue until your floor is completely installed, moving the screed boards as you go</li>
<li>Finally you will burnish the surface of the adobe floor as the clay becomes leather hard (firm enough that you definitely couldn't trowel it anymore, but soft enough that you can just barely make a thumb print in the surface); slightly mist a small area with water and make quick, tight circles using a very flexible float made from steel or plastic; the amount of pressure you can apply will depend on the dampness of the floor; you should see a slight sheen on the surface as you burnish and any hairline cracks will be pushed closed; if you wait too long to burnish, the clay will be too dry & hard, and you will need to skip the burnishing</li>
<li>then let the floor dry completely (and don't let it freeze until it is 100% dry)</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">beginning the final 1-1/2" layer</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">floating the floor level, first with a 2x4, then with a magnesium float to fill all the voids</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">working from every direction to meet in the middle</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a flexible steel float makes the finish super smoooooth</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">you can see each step...rough placement, wood board leveling, and smooth finish</td></tr>
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<b>Watch my trowel primer to understand different types of floats and how best to use them:</b><br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-size: large;">#7: The finish</span></h4>
There are several options for finishing your beautiful adobe floor. (Have you noticed the trend that there's never just one way with natural building?)<br />
<br />
If you chose to apply a thin final layer of clay, you have 2 options:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>apply an 1/8" finish layer, much like a clay plaster, but applied to the floor; when this layer is dry, seal as described below; you can find more info and a recipe <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2012/08/finish-clay-plaster-recipe-wall.html"><b>HERE</b></a></li>
<li>apply 1 to 4 coats of clay paint, also call "alis"; when this layer is dry, seal as described below; you can find more info and a recipe <b><a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/03/make-natural-non-toxic-paint-from-clay.html">HERE</a></b></li>
</ul>
If you chose to burnish your floor, then as soon as the clay is completely dry, you are ready to apply a sealer. The sealer densifies the top layer of clay (making it more durable & scratch resistant), prevents dusting (so you don't get clay on your butt when you sit on the floor), and reduces absorption (so makes it more stain-proof & easy to clean). The most common sealers are hardening oils, which react with oxygen in the air to chemically change into a hard, transparent, water-resistant, but breathable resin. Hardening oils include linseed oil (derived from flax seeds), hemp oil, tung oil, walnut oil, etc. The oil is applied in multiple layers, and each subsequent layer is thinned with a solvent to promote deep absorption into your adobe surface. Common thinning solvents include citrus solvent (d-limonene based, ie orange peel) or mineral spirits (petroleum based). There are alternatives to oil & wax sealers, so feel free to do additional research & experimentation on that. (The most intriguing of all sealers to me is cow urine. Yup, not a typo...cow urine. Traditionally used in parts of Africa and apparently makes for a stunning floor.) You can also add pigment to your sealer if you want to enhance the color of your floor.<br />
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<b>Here are the layers I most commonly use to seal a floor:</b><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>1st coat - pure hardening oil (1 gallon covers approximately 200 SF when applied full strength)</li>
<li>2nd coat - 80% hardening oil with 20% thinning solvent</li>
<li>3rd coat - 60% hardening oil with 40% thinning solvent</li>
<li>optional 4th coat for high traffic or damp areas - 40% hardening oil with 60% thinning solvent</li>
<li>optional beeswax paste to finish - if you want a really luscious surface that feels like leather, then I highly recommend a final coat of beeswax paste buffed into the surface of your sealed floor</li>
</ul>
<br />
Note on smell...the oils harden by oxidizing, a chemical process that offgases an aldehyde compound. Aldehydes are technically a VOC, though the particular compound offgassed from oils as they oxidize has extremely low toxicity (unlike their cousin, formaldehyde, which is carcinogenic). However, there is definitely a smell that can linger (especially from linseed oil) and some people with respiratory issues may experience discomfort.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the finished floor</td></tr>
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<h2>
Additives</h2>
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There are loads of variations on the mix for adobe floors, including additives to enhance various properties. Common additives include cow manure, prickly pear cactus juice, hydrated lime, milk protein (casein), wheat paste, pigments...even blood protein. Look for a future post describing the benefits and characteristics of the most common adobe, cob, and clay plaster additives. (I'll update with a link here when that post is complete.)<br />
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<h2>
Recommended Reads</h2>
<div>
This is a recently published, comprehensive book by Earthen Floor guru Sukita Reay Crimmel.<br />
<br /></div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/086571763X/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img alt=" Purchase "Earthen Floors"" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdl6jkvahsbw_nZjyiQdMYY2tAt4tQfF6lakGKDxNTxqsCrzkFG6QUthyN9oMFsAujWRAmYvPHrSXCHep1QxbdMqFIY2icAKvspR8YM-skxnSGjr3AX6MTZm1R4o7A8DS6rxN_yvJzZYat/s1600/Earthen+Floors.jpg" width="161" /></a></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com195tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-39617503768532861892013-12-20T14:43:00.001-05:002014-01-17T18:14:16.733-05:00Comfy Cob Bench ErgonoicsLove the look of a cob bench but not sure if clay will be comfortable to sit on? Comfort is more about ergonomics than the surface material. A cushy couch can be uncomfortable, which a wooden chair can be superbly comfy. <b>The difference...they key...is how the body fits on the seat.</b><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cob bench at Black Ankle Vineyard's Tasting Room the I designed & built in Maryland</td></tr>
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<h2>
Here are some tips for building an ergonomic, comfortable bench:</h2>
<div>
<ol>
<li>The height of the seat should allow you to sit with your feet flat on the ground in front of you. Otherwise the lip of the seat will cut off the circulation in the back of your thighs and your legs will fall asleep. 15 to 17 inches high is about right for most people.</li>
<li>The depth of the seat should be deep enough but not too deep. If it is too shallow, then you are literally sitting on the edge of your seat. If it is too deep, then you can't sit back comfortably against the backrest. 14 to 18 inches deep is about right for most people.</li>
<li>The seat should slope down slightly toward the rear. This lets you nestle into your spot. A 5-degree slope is about perfect.</li>
<li>The backrest should support you and slope back slightly. The ideal angle between the seat and the backrest is about 100 to 110 degrees.</li>
<li>The base of the bench should give you room to pull your feet back toward your body. When your knees are less than a 90-degree angle, your quads are more relaxed, so the sitting position if more comfortable. So the front face of the bench should slant away from the front edge of the seat (instead of going straight down to the ground). The point where the base meets the ground should be at least 3" back from the front of the seat.</li>
</ol>
<div>
The biggest tip of all, is to test your seat out as you build it. Literally sit on it as you build. See if it feels good. See if your feet can comfortably touch the ground. See if you can lean back comfortably on the backrest. Keep testing and adjusting until it feels perfect to you. And most importantly...have fun cobbing!</div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-65782838874098208082013-12-02T14:36:00.000-05:002013-12-02T14:36:04.060-05:00Three Strawbale No-No'sStrawbale construction has been enjoying an international revival over the past few decades. That revival began in the Southwest U.S., a very dry climate with minimal rainfall and very low humidity. Why is that relevant? Because many of the methods of construction developed in the 1980's in that arid climate are still presented as "best practices" details...however, <i>what works in a dry climate does not necessarily work well in a wet climate</i>, where details need to address condensation, rainfall, snow melt, and more.<br />
<br />
I would like to reset the standard on how strawbale buildings are constructed appropriately in wet/humid climates. First, let's dispel the myth that it is not wise to build with straw in a wet climate. You can read more details <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/01/yes-you-can-build-with-strawbale-in-wet.html"><b>HERE</b></a>, but the bottom line is that anywhere that you can build with wood, you can build durably with straw, because straw and wood are biologically similar. Second, let's talk specifics about three common details seen in books and on the internet. These three common strawbale practices may work fine in super arid climates but are NOT appropriate for wet climates. (However, you can transpose wet/humid climate details to any dry climate.)<br />
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
#1 Do not pin strawbales with internal rebar</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why? </span></b> Rebar is steel reinforcing used to strengthen concrete. The metal is an ambiently cold material, that is, it remains cold to the touch unless there is a heat source. When humidity is present, moisture in the air condenses into a liquid along the cold surface of the metal. The result: a constant drip of water down the metal whenever the air is humid. That water will eventually build up above 18%, at which point, decomposition of the straw will begin.<br />
Additinally, steel requires a lot of energy to manufacture and is way way way stronger than is needed to hold fuzzy strawbales together.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">What to do instead?</span></b> Pin your strawbales together with any ambiently warm material, such as bamboo stakes or wood dowels. Both are strong enough for the job of holding bales together and since both have the same ambient temperature as the straw, you will not create a condensation point inside the wall of straw.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfE3DXkH1ZBiqJachKBUe0lyjX6x4N4W9oLjaL65XpZN1_bIqyQafFQu2DMZVRIQZmmpmKQIDm00vAy_46golQlJtmY9S3bwRR_Iy6OGtr4ccBBgR54_uYQI1_cs2DSW8o2VNO80tx7tP/s1600/bamboo+pins.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="337" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfE3DXkH1ZBiqJachKBUe0lyjX6x4N4W9oLjaL65XpZN1_bIqyQafFQu2DMZVRIQZmmpmKQIDm00vAy_46golQlJtmY9S3bwRR_Iy6OGtr4ccBBgR54_uYQI1_cs2DSW8o2VNO80tx7tP/s400/bamboo+pins.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inserting bamboo pins into a strawbale wall</td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
#2 no cement stucco</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why? </span></b> Cement is a non-breathable finish material, which means that it blocks air-borne moisture (humidity) from transferring through it. Additionally, cement is a brittle material, which means that it develops mini cracks with any movement of the building (and all buildings have movement). What happens is that the cracks allow moisture into the wall and the lack of breathability prevents that moisture from drying back out. The result is moisture build-up over time. And again, if/when that moisture gets to 18%, any biodegradable material will begin to decompose.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">What to do instead?</span></b> Use breathable plasters & finishes, such as clay-based plasters, lime-based plasters, and natural (non-polymer) paints, that allow humidity to transfer freely through the wall. I use lime plasters outside to save on maintenance and clay plasters inside because they are so beautiful and wonderful to work with. For paints, I use natural, mostly home-made paints (you can read more on how to make natural paints <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/01/paint-it-green-with-natural-paints.html">HERE</a>).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">finishing touches on a clay plaster</td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">
#3 no gravel base</span></h2>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Why? </span></b> Most stone, like metal, is ambiently cold....that is, cold to the touch at room temperature or below. So, like the example of metal above, the stone creates an artificial condensation point inside your wall. Consistent condensation means build-up of moisture over time, and...you get the picture by now...eventually you get to that 18%, and decomposition begins.<br />
Plus, you have just built this super-insulated strawbale wall and then eliminated insulation along the entire base...so huge thermal break in your wall system.<br />
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">What to do instead?</span></b> Your base should contain only insulating and ambiently warm materials, like the straw. There is a stone that will work for this application...pumice...which is a volcanic rock that has many air pockets, making it an insulating material. But otherwise, you can use any insulation material, such as light-clay-straw, vermiculite or perlite, wood chips, or even reused packing peanuts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeACzUkzra8ch4iQmtqKVtQhSXZD7JcJD7YPIFiRM8tyGoLGTTNYIln0hIZan1QrYYogAXTk6GaVFtIj8vtu1YH3waG0azn_7_pFukJLCK_XxygaD6Zp2ppy1E9FkqrhKoFfGsvYiN9UQ/s1600/toe-up.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="387" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTeACzUkzra8ch4iQmtqKVtQhSXZD7JcJD7YPIFiRM8tyGoLGTTNYIln0hIZan1QrYYogAXTk6GaVFtIj8vtu1YH3waG0azn_7_pFukJLCK_XxygaD6Zp2ppy1E9FkqrhKoFfGsvYiN9UQ/s400/toe-up.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wall base detail under a strawbale wall, with rigid foam insulation</td></tr>
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<div>
<br /></div>
So let's shift these three common details and build durably for wet climates!!<br />
<br />
<b>RESOURCES</b><br />
Here are my 2 favorite books on how to build appropriately with strawbales in wet climates. All of the authors live & build in snowy, wet, humid climates.<br />
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1890132640/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3hdQ4iWsl8nlAo8KZ9PNEcbz60gdgrw1VQQTfMQZgbtp0lnGPtHF8-SuMkbf2emXh0cmNgoWeM5KBbEKrCe9yhrVUSgSHb6Gq6oU0O9KbmxdfXfAKeBW0zJzPeTYPUPdcAPWbWMJb9Rm/s1600/SeriousStrawbale.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0865715181/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYvtjbPiWyQbjX8esNTtt_OsBOMC1zHHymSlgS1ZRvkPkCQlLmimD-9D1NmXxplhPrbHc5wW9zmIy9c53lSNUJ7bfO59mLMs6sVncgCGUOSgZMUdWuoWh8OvTJEcYAbkha1mglyvF7x4Pe/s1600/MoreStrawbaleBuilding.jpg" /></a></div>
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click the book covers above for more info or to purchase</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com30tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-18390470317694471822013-11-07T09:10:00.000-05:002013-11-07T09:10:14.933-05:00Who Does What...during construction of a natural building?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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A question came up during a recent workshop that seems worth exploring further...<b>Who does each task when constructing a natural building?</b> The answer is, of course: it depends. <i>(If you know me, you saw that coming a mile away!)</i> What depends are the goals & priorities of the Owner...<br />
<br />
...do you want/need to finish construction quickly?<br />
...is cost saving paramount?<br />
...do you want to participate during construction? (and to what extent?)<br />
...would you like to hold workshops or work parties?<br />
...is high quality craftsmanship important to you?<br />
<br />
And then creating a structure for <b>who does what</b> that best suits your particular goals.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWYkfMR1OQiQK-kZDNypDxRqD7XsWTRDlgryJfSg6aOqKDGn8WnoBYB0J2WV6ens4-af7ly2uoJpboL29a1KYoAC6lb1vzRTNgFTl7lP8LcaDoGwvSxaDTP0G8TQ2w7_K_EmOPBk5up8l/s1600/WWD-passive+solar+wall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBWYkfMR1OQiQK-kZDNypDxRqD7XsWTRDlgryJfSg6aOqKDGn8WnoBYB0J2WV6ens4-af7ly2uoJpboL29a1KYoAC6lb1vzRTNgFTl7lP8LcaDoGwvSxaDTP0G8TQ2w7_K_EmOPBk5up8l/s640/WWD-passive+solar+wall.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="552" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawbale home built by a contractor -- high quality all around, but also higher cost<br />More project pics here: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.667956946561799.1073741837.171782289512603&type=3">Will & Wendy's Home Photos</a></td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">So let's back up a bit and define the different roles that get you from <u>an idea</u>, to <u>a home</u> you can live in.</span></h2>
<b>First,</b> you need <u>a design</u> for what you are building. That design should be suited to your climate and the piece of land you build on. Some jurisdictions will allow you to draw up your own design. If that feels overwhelming, you can purchase pre-designed natural home plans or you can hire a designer/architect to create a custom design.<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Second,</b> decide who is going to be the coordinator for the project. In conventional construction, this is the <u>general contractor</u>. This person makes sure construction occurs in the proper order and makes sure any trades (electrician, plumber, etc.) and inspections are scheduled at the proper times. <i>This can be done by the Owner!</i> In which case I have one recommendation...if you have never built anything before, do some research on contracting skills before you take this on & I recommend creating a mentor-type relationship with a local builder to help in case you get stuck head-scratching.<br />
<br />
<b>Third,</b> decide who will do the <u>natural building</u>! You can hire a professional to do some or all of the natural building. You can host workshops led by an experienced natural builder. Or you can lead work parties with a group of friends & family. On this one, be realistic about how much of your time you can dedicate to sweat equity. Be realistic about your expectations for finesse of finishes, especially if you have minimal construction experience. And I strongly recommend working with a natural builder, at least on a consulting basis, to help problem-solve anything unusual that may come up (and to give you peace of mind).<br />
<br />
<b>Fourth,</b> remember the specific <u>trades</u>. These include excavation, concrete work (foundation), plumbing, electrical, any wood structure (framing, timber-framing), trim work, cabinet installation, etc. Be realistic if each of these is something you could do, considering skill-level as well as time. And note that in many regions, some of the specifics must be installed by licensed tradespeople (most commonly this includes electrical and plumbing).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhmFPzDWOzXbplH8Cgq1pPlAF7JZ62rdp48U6LKbsUhWmwaixmfYpOZdnDTs30EaQka8sZxit-LcFZdIz7_0sRTeOlToweUQ7xZjgILrHbYtv8ef6YECupOrCc2pPWVRviSH6I4QkYqrfQ/s1600/BTR-from+loft+for+blog.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhmFPzDWOzXbplH8Cgq1pPlAF7JZ62rdp48U6LKbsUhWmwaixmfYpOZdnDTs30EaQka8sZxit-LcFZdIz7_0sRTeOlToweUQ7xZjgILrHbYtv8ef6YECupOrCc2pPWVRviSH6I4QkYqrfQ/s640/BTR-from+loft+for+blog.JPG" width="516" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Strawbale studio built mostly with workshops & sweat equity by the Owners -- less expensive, with a hand-built aesthetic. More project pics here: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.475053319185497.110413.171782289512603&type=3">Beth's Cottage photos</a></td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span></h2>
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">What scenario is right for your project?</span></h2>
There are many many ways to structure a construction project in terms of who does what. Everything from pure Owner/Builder to hiring a General Contractor to do it all...or...a hybrid collaboration between the Owner and a Builder. If your builder does not have experience with natural building, you likely also will need support with strawbale or cob or cordwood or whatever natural building materials you have chosen to use. The bottom line, is that you should expect to be more involved during construction, and this is probably one of the things that is drawing you toward building naturally in the first place.<br />
<br />
<b>But how do you structure a scenario that makes the most sense for you??</b><br />
<br />
One of my favorite pieces of advice when undergoing construction is that you can choose <b><u>TWO</u> </b>of the following <b><u>three</u> </b>priorities:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><b>speed</b></li>
<li><b>low cost</b></li>
<li><b>quality</b></li>
</ol>
<br />
So, to decide what type of construction collaboration is going to be right for your project, <b>choose which 2 of these priorities are most important to you</b>.<br />
<br />
<b>If you choose <u>speed & low cost</u></b>...then you are a good candidate to act as your own contractor and host work parties for the natural building features. This scenario puts a burden on you to be informed...about construction timelines, about finding tradespeople as needed, about the proper way to install your natural building materials, about finding materials, about what you want, etc. What you may not be able to control with lots of unskilled labor is the quality of the final finishes. You will dedicate maximum time input, so be realistic that you have a chunk of a few months that you can dedicate pretty exclusively to your construction project. Your payoff is that you have your building completed quickly and for a minimum financial investment.<br />
<br />
<b>If you choose <u>low cost & quality</u></b>...then you may still want to act as your own general contractor, but you are a good candidate to hire a professional natural builder to lead your workshops. You may also want to explore using salvage building materials and take the time to really hunt for items you love aesthetically. This scenario requires patience. You will still likely contribute a lot of sweat equity during construction, especially fine-tuning the natural building elements. You may want to personalize the space by sculpting walls or you may invest in some more time-consuming finishes (mosaic, tadelat, polished clay with wax buffed in...) Some weeks you may feel like you are not making any progress. But you will get there, and your payoff is that you have a beautiful building for less money than you would have spent if someone else had done all of the work.<br />
For more tips on salvage hunting, see <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/03/one-persons-wasteis-anothers-treasure.html">"One Person's Waste...is another's treasure"</a><br />
<br />
<b>If you choose <u>speed & quality</u></b>...then you likely will hire a general contractor to oversee your project. You may still want to participate during the natural building portions of construction. And I would definitely recommend hiring a professional natural builder to lead workshops or to train your contractor's crew. In this scenario, your energy is focused more on decisions...aesthetic choices, how/when you want to participate with the natural building (and coordinating that with your contractor), what you want your finishes to look like. If you find you don't have tons of time to dedicate to the natural building or you can't quite muster the level of skill to make you plaster look like you want, then you have a building crew that can take care of it. This scenario will cost you more, since you are paying for more people-labor. Your payoff is a beautifully crafted building with exactly the quality of finishes that you enjoy.<br />
<br />
There are obviously hybrids of each of these, but hopefully this helps you clarify what you can & want to do for your natural building project. And most important...have fun!<br />
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<tr><td><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLi0DqChu5zAGCHxEcXio3pjxFGJL7I4ch5hlwLqft1Osn_oakzn9AqO1TF6Dk3_hGUVJlTIwPNt1zeZeyqoNSPufRb9wlE6zWIkUmnw4ThklVn42P9S7qTbRlKMhmyT4SnBBlEXClMjK/s1600/SLDG-kitchen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfLi0DqChu5zAGCHxEcXio3pjxFGJL7I4ch5hlwLqft1Osn_oakzn9AqO1TF6Dk3_hGUVJlTIwPNt1zeZeyqoNSPufRb9wlE6zWIkUmnw4ThklVn42P9S7qTbRlKMhmyT4SnBBlEXClMjK/s640/SLDG-kitchen.JPG" width="476" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">Strawbale & cordwood home with lots of salvage materials built by the Owners -- less expensive, but more time-consuming to build. More project pics here: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.203033676387464.52645.171782289512603&type=3">Scot & Linda's Home Photos</a></td></tr>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-50903768535874906892013-10-23T15:46:00.000-04:002013-12-05T22:24:55.398-05:00Lime Over Clay...When is that ok?There is a commonly held misconception that I would like to correct: <i> just because lime plaster works as a protective coating for cob buildings (with thick walls built from clay, sand, & straw), doesn't mean that lime plaster works as an exterior protective coating over thin clay plasters.</i><br />
<br />
What am I talking about? I am talking about the practice of applying a clay plaster base coat over exterior strawbale walls, and then finishing over the clay plaster with a more durable plaster made from lime putty. The idea is that<br />
a) clay plaster is easier & more pleasant to apply<br />
and<br />
b) it must be ok to use lime over clay because lime works as a finish on adobe and cob walls.<br />
<b>However, this method of using lime plaster over clay plaster actually could lead to failure of your plaster and potentially also moisture build-up in your strawbale wall over time.</b><br />
<br />
<h2>
Exterior plaster is usually applied in 3 coats:</h2>
<div>
<ol>
<li>First, the scratch coat - the purpose of this coat is to get a really good bond to your wall substrate (so for strawbale construction, this means your first coat is stuck really well to the surface of the bales)</li>
<li>Second, the brown coat - this is mostly a shaping coat, to make the <u>shape</u> of the wall exactly as you would like it to look when finished</li>
<li>Finally, the finish coat - this is the coat that gives you the desired texture and sometimes includes integral color</li>
</ol>
<h2>
Basic rules for multi-coat exterior plaster...</h2>
<div>
</div>
When applying multiple coats of plaster on the exterior, you can use the same recipe for each coat. In other words, there is no performance issue if all three layers of your plaster are clay or if all three are lime. However, if you are going to vary your recipe, then the following centuries-old rules must apply:<br />
<ol>
<li>the layers of plaster/stucco (if not all the same) need to progress from hardest to softest, with softest as the finish</li>
<li>the layers of plaster/stucco (if not all the same) need to progress from least permeable to most permeable, with most permeable as the finish</li>
</ol>
Why is this? Well, it has to do with how moisture moves through a wall...</div>
<h2>
Let's start with the properties of lime plaster/stucco...</h2>
<div>
Cured lime plaster, chemically speaking, is calcium carbonate...basically limestone. It's softer & more permeable than cement, but harder and less permeable than clay. <i>Permeability refers to a material's ability to allow air-borne vapor, humidity, pass through it Think Gortex...water-repellent and vapor permeable.</i> Lime plaster/stucco makes a beautiful, durable, breathable exterior finish.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcdTvMsemzRJhTs-GDRLivnG77XxLhRjmp43F1kp-KINb-QCTO7wNiqeR4t5YQapMb9-Gzte5haOQ7SDevdBe1saWJiw61bTihF1SZ-OB-x3Jm0KkmW9tUhe3tEYx1XKeSXcUa0ACD1tm2/s1600/close-up+of+lime+without+cracks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcdTvMsemzRJhTs-GDRLivnG77XxLhRjmp43F1kp-KINb-QCTO7wNiqeR4t5YQapMb9-Gzte5haOQ7SDevdBe1saWJiw61bTihF1SZ-OB-x3Jm0KkmW9tUhe3tEYx1XKeSXcUa0ACD1tm2/s400/close-up+of+lime+without+cracks.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<h2>
Next, the properties of clay...</h2>
Clay plaster is a combination of sticky clay (the binder) and sand (the aggregate). Clay particles are like sponges that can absorb moisture from the humidity in the air or liquid water from rain, snow, etc. (The clay particles then release that moisture when the surroundings are dry.) When clay absorbs water, the particles get fatter, literally increasing in volume (then shrinking as the clay dries). If you have a fixed amount of moisture that is being absorbed, then thinner clay (ie, plaster) will swell more in volume than thicker clay (ie, solid cob wall). This means that in the exact same weather conditions, clay plasters will expand & contract, whereas thick cob walls will stay relatively constant. By itself, this is not a problem, because the clay is flexible enough to withstand the expansion & contraction.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFp-4v81hxaoKVLNDu-QwJnPgXBezKhlHmUsl0LY5V00P5aU5UO6Bc20g4Pb1DAHaGvNPwCC_UUmN7ZKd5ITItX2n-C5-_lBr_4AG9NSteYj85OdnavcGOv1RFho-4iWMPCKqxrvrh7wLX/s1600/close-up+of+clay+plaster-ACDR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFp-4v81hxaoKVLNDu-QwJnPgXBezKhlHmUsl0LY5V00P5aU5UO6Bc20g4Pb1DAHaGvNPwCC_UUmN7ZKd5ITItX2n-C5-_lBr_4AG9NSteYj85OdnavcGOv1RFho-4iWMPCKqxrvrh7wLX/s400/close-up+of+clay+plaster-ACDR.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<h2>
So, what's the problem?</h2>
<div>
The short answer: it's an issue of thickness & water absorption. As stated above, clay plasters expand when wet and contract when dry. In short, they move by swelling and shrinking. Not a problem if you only have clay. However, lime plaster is rigid, like monolithic stone. The way lime plaster deals with movement is that it forms a crack to allow independent pieces to move independently. Sooooo, if you have a substrate of clay, that is expanding and contracting with the weather, and you have a finish surface of lime, that cannot handle movement....then the natural movement of the clay will result in cracking in the lime finish plaster (that you wouldn't have if you just used clay or just used lime).<br />
<br />
The second problem is technical...when you have a soft substrate under a hard, less permeable finish, then over time moisture actually erodes the substrate (ie, the clay plaster) right out from under the finish (ie, the lime plaster). This is seen dramatically in cases where adobe buildings were finished with hard, impermeable cement plasters, resulting in erosion of the clay right out from under the cement, leaving nothing for the cement to bond to, and whole chunks of the cement stucco just fall off the walls. While lime is not as hard and as impermeable as cement, it is hard<b>er</b> and <b>less</b> permeable than the clay, so the process may take longer but the same result is at risk of occurring.</div>
<br />
<h2>
How do I know?</h2>
Maybe this all seems theoretical. It did to me too. Soooooo, I built a test...a small strawbale building in my mom's yard...to test the theory out and find out exactly what would happen. (My poor mom!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAqbjJNJnK3RxiF9GHK0EmAS8WzjVViWYEM6sjFNlb_tTcSCTz9zcmuOoqRE3Ge5npLfpgCelcGMPf4XTfZ7V9niquAMVJesJLJI5a9R9QXQaAmVJNLkWnrlZhK-9u4Z0wO4ip-wcca6M/s1600/CIMG0977.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAqbjJNJnK3RxiF9GHK0EmAS8WzjVViWYEM6sjFNlb_tTcSCTz9zcmuOoqRE3Ge5npLfpgCelcGMPf4XTfZ7V9niquAMVJesJLJI5a9R9QXQaAmVJNLkWnrlZhK-9u4Z0wO4ip-wcca6M/s400/CIMG0977.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">angled strawbale walls with deep roof overhang<br />
(the drip line of the roof is over 42" from the base of the strawbales)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The walls are strawbale, with deep roof overhangs to protect from any direct rain. So the moisture that interacts with the walls is almost entirely from humidity. Over the straw, I applied 2 coats of clay plaster, totaling approximately 1-inch thick. I let the clay dry completely and made sure the clay surface was crack-free. Over the clay, I applied two coats of lime plaster.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOHgKe5OLJsLGWxURpKl3UUMFPrWcI8Wc4pC2cNDRa-W7SviqZbev9Wt0KYi9-Pzcy_WzdF81qxNuA-zv-XmdyKy_Q0SOw-2-uBG3Bz7g3H3CUMxmSK_xQyT-oSASpnaXtc2vjjq6_19w/s1600/DSC_0077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsOHgKe5OLJsLGWxURpKl3UUMFPrWcI8Wc4pC2cNDRa-W7SviqZbev9Wt0KYi9-Pzcy_WzdF81qxNuA-zv-XmdyKy_Q0SOw-2-uBG3Bz7g3H3CUMxmSK_xQyT-oSASpnaXtc2vjjq6_19w/s400/DSC_0077.JPG" width="265" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 coats of lime plaster over 1" of clay plaster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Then I waited a year. My theory was that the thin clay base coat would expand and contract with changes in humidity, and that movement would cause the lime plaster to crack (since lime is not as flexible to movement as the clay is).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU0U-nd8gfS1wFXEESswHowsJ-Sm8qekt4Cr2lNVxOhShFZzd5mdIi-8tQSTS16UCDeaOiILbiotckSz5OiPA9p4hR1rziMIS4o-U77Wc7RgynwPu7EwdUqS5Sdo5EwUa1uDnUwtqMlas/s1600/close-up+of+lime+cracks.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifU0U-nd8gfS1wFXEESswHowsJ-Sm8qekt4Cr2lNVxOhShFZzd5mdIi-8tQSTS16UCDeaOiILbiotckSz5OiPA9p4hR1rziMIS4o-U77Wc7RgynwPu7EwdUqS5Sdo5EwUa1uDnUwtqMlas/s400/close-up+of+lime+cracks.JPG" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">large cracks in lime plaster (over clay sub-plaster)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And here's what happened....in less than one year, with no direct moisture, rain, water anything getting on the walls, the clay sub-plaster had swelled & shrunk enough (from just humidity changes) to dramatically crack the lime plaster. It's normal to see hairline cracks in lime plaster after several years, but not huge cracks like this and not within one year. Hairline cracks will mostly self-heal, or can be lime washed. But larger cracks like this need to be completely protected from rain or will require repair.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
The bottom line...</h2>
<div>
My recommendation in regions with humid or wet weather, is to use an exterior plaster that is consistent in all three coats...either all three clay or all three lime. Use all clay plaster if the walls are very protected from any weather or if you don't mind an annual replastering party. Use all lime plaster if you want a more care-free, water repellent finish.</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com69tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-23070287489684655122013-06-14T23:44:00.000-04:002013-06-14T23:45:11.080-04:00Build a Clay (Cob) Oven in Your Yard!<h3>
How to build a wood-fired pizza/bread oven using local natural materials</h3>
If you are looking for a small project to get your hands (and feet!) dirty testing out some natural building skills, then building a wood-fired oven is a great place to start. If you have a little help, it takes just a couple days to build, then a few weeks to let it dry out (during which time, you can sculpt your oven to any shape), and then you're ready for a pizza party!!<br />
<br />
What is a cob wood-fired pizza oven?? Well...it's a baking oven that is heated by lighting a fire inside, the fire warms up a thick clay oven wall, and the clay wall remains warm for hours after the fire is pulled out. So you build the fire in the same oven area that becomes your baking space. The beauty of this type of oven is a) the oven is simple to build using local, natural materials and b) the oven temperature remains very even throughout, with no hot or cold spots. Plus, it's a fun project to do with a bunch of people and you can celebrate your accomplishment with a pizza party!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1pXFVKYop3D6GgqEc5jjLIl5MVPI9azdEtaKKeev8RuJ8Rr6VkKBgizI_cfDkcD6O6tOT4fsiQyogUvlydcpZesk57y4mht-mBwX-4oeid0Y1QO5ykhRbZUUiY6irlLcu22nYqKvX28v/s1600/small+oven.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU1pXFVKYop3D6GgqEc5jjLIl5MVPI9azdEtaKKeev8RuJ8Rr6VkKBgizI_cfDkcD6O6tOT4fsiQyogUvlydcpZesk57y4mht-mBwX-4oeid0Y1QO5ykhRbZUUiY6irlLcu22nYqKvX28v/s320/small+oven.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
So, what do you need to know to ensure that your oven project is successful?</h3>
<br />
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><u><b>FIRST</b></u>, get this book:</span></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/096798467X/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQv0YHdj6a7Ej2fz6jGNVt_HTHqpr7a2O7sEU7wUdwPa51XUHD7KzYPhDW70RXEYQS_NGG4aItZFzV9m5BVyGiT45Ply0e13McjBxmgexAfjsVuyvioikJOuG3gGsggmsOFdzRoYt8u1lT/s1600/KikoDenzer.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this book contains all of the information you<br />need to successfully build a cob oven. Really!</td></tr>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><u style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><b>SECOND</b></u><span style="font-weight: bold; text-align: center;">, decide what size oven you want to build.</span></span></h2>
The appropriate size for you will depend on how you intend to use your oven. Here are the variables effected by size:<br />
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<ol>
<li>The larger the oven, the more materials you need to build it. For example, an oven that is 36" wide inside takes about twice as much clay, sand, & straw as an oven that is 24" wide inside. And more materials translates to more building time as well.</li>
<li>The larger the oven, the longer it takes to heat up. For example, a 24" wide oven takes about 2 hours of fire to heat up, whereas a 36" oven takes about 3 hours.</li>
<li>The larger the oven, the more mass, soooooo, the longer the oven stays warm. This means you can cook in it longer each time you fire it up. Especially if you a good insulation layer on your oven.</li>
<li>And obviously, the larger your oven, the more pizzas you can bake at once! (Or whatever you are cooking...)</li>
</ol>
So, think about how long you want to wait for your oven to heat up, how long you want the oven to stay hot (larger oven for pizza party use, smaller oven for personal use), and think about how big of a project you want to take on (do you want to build a small oven over 2 days or go for a larger oven and spend longer to build)??<div>
Typical sizes are 22-1/2", 27", or 36" (these sizes work out well with the size of standard fire brick). Of course, there are mini ovens as well as massive ovens, but those are mostly for special use applications.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><u style="text-align: center;"><b>THIRD</b></u><span style="text-align: center;">, decide if you will build a roof over your oven.</span></span></h2>
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<div style="text-align: start;">
<span style="text-align: center;">A roof will help protect your oven from the elements, and allows you to bake even when the weather is sucky. Rain, especially, will erode a clay oven over time. You can either allow that, replaster your oven every year, put a tarp over your oven when it's not in use, or....build a roof to protect it. If you decide to build a roof, those materials will be in addition to those listed below. Build your roof so you have plenty of room to stand underneath, and to clear any smoke out. I recommend at least 7 feet of clearance under the roof.</span></div>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><u style="text-align: center;"><b>FOURTH</b></u><span style="text-align: center;">, gather your materials.</span></span></h2>
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<div style="text-align: start;">
<b>You will need the following materials to build your oven:</b></div>
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<ol>
<li><b><u>Clay</u>:</b> Clay is your essential ingredient, because it is the binder that holds all the materials together. When wet, clay is sticky. When it dries, it is strong & hard. You can use clay-soil OR you can purchase dry, bagged, pottery clay. <i>(see video below on how to test your soil for clay content.)</i> If you are using clay soil, you will need to determine the proportion of clay in your soil (it may feel like it's 100% clay, but it rarely actually is...usually there is sand in there as well).<br /><b>HOW MUCH?</b> The amount of clay needed depends on the size oven you are building. Here I am talking about total clay, so if you are using soil with clay in it, you will calculate the amount of clay based on the percentage of clay in the soil (So, if your soil is 50% clay & 50% sand, then every bucket of soil = 1/2 bucket of clay & 1/2 bucket of sand.) So total clay needed is about 25 gallons for a 22-1/2" oven, about 35 gallons for a 27" oven, and about 50 gallons for a 36" oven.</li>
<li><b><u>Sand</u>:</b> Sand is your aggregate. It reduces shrinkage of the clay as it dries and it adds total strength to your oven walls. You need to use angular sand, not smooth sand or silt. Concrete sand is pretty cheap & works great. I also use sand to build the form for the oven (this sand is taken out at the end and can be used to make plaster if you finish your oven that way).<br /><b>HOW MUCH?</b> Plan on about 300 to 500 lbs of sand if you are using clay soil with at least 50% sand content; if you are using bagged pottery clay, double the sand.</li>
<li><b><u>Straw</u>:</b> Straw is used to create an insulating layer for your oven. It is also helpful to stand on the bales as your oven gets tall. Make sure your straw is clean, dry, and mold-free.<br /><b>HOW MUCH?</b> You need about 2 to 3 strawbales for a small oven and 3 to 4 strawbales for a larger oven. If you plan to sculpt your oven into a fun shape, make sure you have ample straw.</li>
<li><b><u>Firebrick</u>:</b> This is what I like to use for the floor of the oven, because they don't split in the heat of the fire and they have extremely squared edges, so they make a really smooth floor. Typical firebrick are 4-1/2" x 9" x 1-1/2". You can lay out the bricks for your desired oven size to see exactly how many you need, but below is what I use as a reference.<br /><b>HOW MUCH?</b> I use 15 firebrick for a 22-1/2" oven (12 for the floor + 3 for the door opening), 22 firebrick for a 27" oven (18 for the floor + 4 for the door opening), and 37 firebrick for a 36" oven (32 for the floor + 5 for the door opening).</li>
<li><b><u>Water</u>:</b> you will need a running water source to wet the clay binder. (and is helpful for clean-up)</li>
<li><b><u>Newspaper</u><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span><i style="font-weight: normal;">(optional)</i>:</b> I use this as a layer between my sand form & the first layer of clay...it lets you know when to stop digging out your sand so you don't accidentally gouge your oven wall.</li>
<li><u style="font-weight: bold;">Stones or brick or urbanite</u> <i>(optional)</i><b>:</b> I recommend building your oven up on a base so you don't have to kneel on the ground to tend your fire & bake. A comfortable height is typically 24" to 36" off the ground, but choose whatever height is comfortable to you. You can use any kind of masonry material that is available to you, and you can make cob (clay, sand, and straw) to make a strong mortar. Just make sure that your oven base is very stable. Once the base is built & dry, don't forget to fill in the center (with something sturdy & non-compressible), so you have something solid to build your oven floor on.</li>
</ol>
<i>Note: I highly recommend collecting extra material than you think you need so you don't run out of anything mid-stream.</i><br />
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<h3>
How to test your soil to see if it has clay in it:</h3>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/hh211b8b5FE" width="560"></iframe></h3>
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<b>And this is my tools list when doing an oven workshop:</b><br />
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<div>
<ol>
<li>buckets - I like to have ample 5-gallon buckets; you these to transport and measure your materials; to me, 5 buckets is a minimum, but if you are working alone, one bucket will work</li>
<li>tarps - I like to have 2 tarps, but one works; 10' x 10' seems to be a manageable size</li>
<li>shovels - if you are working alone, one shovel is fine; if you are going to have a bunch of people, have at least one shovel for sand & one for clay (more if you will have lots of helpers)</li>
<li>sifter - if you are using clay soil dug out of the ground, I find it easiest to sift it roughly through a 1/2" screen to remove any rocks & to break up the clay and make it easier to mix; I like a table screen that fits over a wheelbarrow</li>
<li>a wheelbarrow is useful to transport material, but is not essential</li>
</ol>
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<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;"><u style="text-align: center;"><b>FINALLY</b></u><span style="text-align: center;">, build your oven!</span></span></h2>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP ONE: Build your base</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-nngKHHNStVpVrdJ0KmNCnOe2UzDA-ONIbErAOCklE7s7PxwMrFoLas7w3OIr0ECiuz2WKZU9rZfXw91vtMgtIMCzWmpTSlWmFiytkZbu_V215pENx6XYLBxKv9Y3RdLFgBYHxhV4fDXW/s1600/dig+a+pit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-nngKHHNStVpVrdJ0KmNCnOe2UzDA-ONIbErAOCklE7s7PxwMrFoLas7w3OIr0ECiuz2WKZU9rZfXw91vtMgtIMCzWmpTSlWmFiytkZbu_V215pENx6XYLBxKv9Y3RdLFgBYHxhV4fDXW/s320/dig+a+pit.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like to make a shallow foundation filled with gravel to help keep the oven from moving with freeze-thaw cycles in the ground.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDJj62GcSZv09YSebdaWrVC_OpHsYtrwQAGer9ZLppl9Yn8XBhNT8cimMyb0o52PzVLYcfqTNrBQ9JfBoPV_HE0RxMGyWIrkA0yoo9p_CSyoVtzbocjg_-hqXDBStR8RK5FkbbQPiSxeT/s1600/Philly+Earth+-+Lewis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikDJj62GcSZv09YSebdaWrVC_OpHsYtrwQAGer9ZLppl9Yn8XBhNT8cimMyb0o52PzVLYcfqTNrBQ9JfBoPV_HE0RxMGyWIrkA0yoo9p_CSyoVtzbocjg_-hqXDBStR8RK5FkbbQPiSxeT/s320/Philly+Earth+-+Lewis.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can build your base with any masonry material - this example uses old cobblestones from the streets of Philadelphia, built with a cob (clay, sand & straw) mortar mixture.</td></tr>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP TWO: Fill in your base & build the oven floor</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjCuatinWl-0hiDVLC7WMJLK62X3gar1pAjihO5t72NMc5wDt5EUvwzzV-BA50oaGqPwkQO4MVM4wrG9jkOuaEic8EBoQcpSHxwlhmA0G6v3ds8-adHZ1RvNQZwznoac_DFYsw1XDV-Ga/s1600/fill+base+%2526+level+layer+with+compacted+sand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfjCuatinWl-0hiDVLC7WMJLK62X3gar1pAjihO5t72NMc5wDt5EUvwzzV-BA50oaGqPwkQO4MVM4wrG9jkOuaEic8EBoQcpSHxwlhmA0G6v3ds8-adHZ1RvNQZwznoac_DFYsw1XDV-Ga/s320/fill+base+%2526+level+layer+with+compacted+sand.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fill in the base of the oven with a non-compressible material, like tamped gravel. Then add a 4" or so layer of sand that extend just above the sides of your base. Tamp and level that sand.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqC_7GzTl5L3Qi6Fk95afOXsRrdywcyhX5JUeeFM6U3IIa6l1007L87KfhrWEs_0uMm2NdwTnKl85YyMB0dZrZiq4TkW3o4Sm22chBfj02YwJQmhxMuJ3I7TmCVl-y_it_zZvmh764PHe/s1600/lay+a+level+firebrick+floor3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicqC_7GzTl5L3Qi6Fk95afOXsRrdywcyhX5JUeeFM6U3IIa6l1007L87KfhrWEs_0uMm2NdwTnKl85YyMB0dZrZiq4TkW3o4Sm22chBfj02YwJQmhxMuJ3I7TmCVl-y_it_zZvmh764PHe/s320/lay+a+level+firebrick+floor3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Then build your oven floor with the firebricks, making sure they are nice & tight to each other. Tamp your bricks and make sure they are nice & level. Spend some extra time here...the nicer your oven floor, the fewer nooks & crannies that will cause you potential headaches when you are baking.</td></tr>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP THREE: Build the form for your oven cavity<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC8G7Uwz9gdhi0_sBUsKLQtyh66CBPXBJc58ykyI4AbMrAqNRj09wpca0eqhi68D9Qv6efN3DLSYeYiI6xUDV3WDYtZFVJxXof0pI2ZBZw_lpiQLYWVd_4VZ_GjuXS_OEcW2kN830z1RlU/s1600/build+a+sand+mound.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC8G7Uwz9gdhi0_sBUsKLQtyh66CBPXBJc58ykyI4AbMrAqNRj09wpca0eqhi68D9Qv6efN3DLSYeYiI6xUDV3WDYtZFVJxXof0pI2ZBZw_lpiQLYWVd_4VZ_GjuXS_OEcW2kN830z1RlU/s320/build+a+sand+mound.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basically, you are building the most boring sand castle ever: a nice dome. The dome width is the diameter of baking space you want. The height of the dome will be 75% of whatever your width is.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvopHMCyDPKf9pFIuWhXbU_8NDKuwDMeXUXxSkmQGE_H6GuJRgzXYDiwMViMbNVAuWrE5CopLvfGNf4cr6_0zYB_ZmyUZnAVDIteTU3Tr3Bu4fAo6AVyuQ79arSSnP8rJvmOrXZFGLZv9p/s1600/add+newspaper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvopHMCyDPKf9pFIuWhXbU_8NDKuwDMeXUXxSkmQGE_H6GuJRgzXYDiwMViMbNVAuWrE5CopLvfGNf4cr6_0zYB_ZmyUZnAVDIteTU3Tr3Bu4fAo6AVyuQ79arSSnP8rJvmOrXZFGLZv9p/s320/add+newspaper.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Add a layer of newspaper over your sand so that when you dig out the sand at the end, you know when to stop digging (before gauging your clay layer).</td></tr>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP FOUR: Build the clay mass layer of your oven<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidv3v1LYXzSqhzMR6h7dk-_SavG6WrI37rLT9crwgky7uqyIPNKI7iT7dqSIeh0gfUArVi7AAPJPLCXlj2SkCR1CIXmbV9A7HO-6YbwHh2SYb-GfeANpoS0vJqWCXaxVdUt9smUhJ2hoxa/s1600/build+thermal+mass+layer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidv3v1LYXzSqhzMR6h7dk-_SavG6WrI37rLT9crwgky7uqyIPNKI7iT7dqSIeh0gfUArVi7AAPJPLCXlj2SkCR1CIXmbV9A7HO-6YbwHh2SYb-GfeANpoS0vJqWCXaxVdUt9smUhJ2hoxa/s320/build+thermal+mass+layer.jpg" width="320" /></a> </td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first layer of your oven is cob without the straw, so just sand & clay. You want enough clay so the mixture is sticky, but enough sand so that this layer doesn't shrink (and then crack) a lot. For most types of clay, that means between 20% and 25% total clay content. I like to make this layer 4" thick, all the way around your sand dome. I do not worry about the door at this point...I carve that out later.</td></tr>
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</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP FIVE: Add the insulation layer<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6BChIsgfdn1RDuvAHwLSYwRTiWiQpcvDWOIKxyo77jK_PXqSPtVyB7uuQvVbP3ZcS0U957vZHOPnSeJCJC2S3zNaz6Ny-S1KSJECHbPG_6z2soEZoMJ6tTU9GS-e4c7SIhyk8FTzJNAY/s1600/add+insulation+layer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjh6BChIsgfdn1RDuvAHwLSYwRTiWiQpcvDWOIKxyo77jK_PXqSPtVyB7uuQvVbP3ZcS0U957vZHOPnSeJCJC2S3zNaz6Ny-S1KSJECHbPG_6z2soEZoMJ6tTU9GS-e4c7SIhyk8FTzJNAY/s320/add+insulation+layer.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Your insulation layer is mostly straw, with just enough clay to act like hairspray to hold the straw together. The idea is to keep the heat inside the oven for as long as possible, increasing the efficiency. What to do: use a clay mixture that is 50% clay & 50% sand (if that is the proportion in your soil, then you can just use your soil), wet the clay/sand mixture so it is quite soggy...like a chocolate milk shake, then add lots of loose straw, until all of the straw is coated with clay. Then smoosh it in place. I use about 6" thick of insulation.</td></tr>
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</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP SIX: Cut the door</h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gXzVYuG4hJydD8TW5uy04jtTfnEOtH2YznzTqAASOfLpUKURV3qzdpqw5v2q0tPupR1RsQlGk5FInzNqOMPAVmlqA3bbSVuAs3wWEAqWUEeiOpK7HtjzlzTVByguGU-5H10aeMSysLw1/s1600/cut+the+door2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8gXzVYuG4hJydD8TW5uy04jtTfnEOtH2YznzTqAASOfLpUKURV3qzdpqw5v2q0tPupR1RsQlGk5FInzNqOMPAVmlqA3bbSVuAs3wWEAqWUEeiOpK7HtjzlzTVByguGU-5H10aeMSysLw1/s320/cut+the+door2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I like to sculpt the door in the insulating layer. The straw has really good binding properties, which make it easy to sculpt a nice arch for your door. If you are not doing a chimney, then the height of the door needs to be 2/3 as high as the inside dome. This allows fresh oxygen-rich air to come in the bottom of your door opening to feed your fire and the exhaust exits the top of the door area without smothering the fire. If you make a door ahead of time, you can use that as your template for sculpting & cutting your opening.</td></tr>
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<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP SEVEN: Let the oven dry for a few days, then pull out the sand<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk17IgKdXXRhUrsffnY2SHTgx_-E5AjQqYwXOyNMzYzFPGAxBCb_-AGWC7dLAjOjv78Miwe1oo3tQzcvZaz1UYXrYVXdlaoTv_rBzTAhjhzliWyzuj-ndgInc_bfi24QgpQb2ddCxAuR1o/s1600/silly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk17IgKdXXRhUrsffnY2SHTgx_-E5AjQqYwXOyNMzYzFPGAxBCb_-AGWC7dLAjOjv78Miwe1oo3tQzcvZaz1UYXrYVXdlaoTv_rBzTAhjhzliWyzuj-ndgInc_bfi24QgpQb2ddCxAuR1o/s320/silly.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">There are a few strategies for taking out the sand. I like to carve out the door the day the oven is finished, then pull out about 1/3 of the sand, and then let the oven sit for several days to let the clay mass layer dry out a bit. Then you can pull out the remainder of the sand without risking any collapse of the dome. But don't worry, if you pull out the sand too soon and part of it collapses, you can just patch it with the same materials.</td></tr>
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</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP EIGHT: Sculpt your oven as desired<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1aBVvIT6U7w7ST2x8-PQtwuzo3x2Vb1dmSw1zcXUPGVoT7aPe-mJZ9UeWrgHpRkjViUYQfRNKUQOTBOVF3-0cMJw3DD0Aixx5aEfWe-ZJeRnz3q0cKl-flokAJuCw3lmAvc7xm576cQh/s1600/BTR-oven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1aBVvIT6U7w7ST2x8-PQtwuzo3x2Vb1dmSw1zcXUPGVoT7aPe-mJZ9UeWrgHpRkjViUYQfRNKUQOTBOVF3-0cMJw3DD0Aixx5aEfWe-ZJeRnz3q0cKl-flokAJuCw3lmAvc7xm576cQh/s1600/BTR-oven.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use clay, sand, and lots of straw to make a firm, cob mixture that you can use to sculpt your oven into any shape that makes you happy. If your oven has begun to dry out when you start sculpting, be sure to wet down the surface before you add your sculpted pieces, otherwise they will not bond to what is existing. You can also put mosaic tile on your oven, or plaster it with clay or lime plaster. (This photo shows a lime plaster that is fairly weather-resistant.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</h4>
<h4 style="text-align: center;">
STEP NINE: Let your oven dry out completely & then have a pizza party!<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfZhC2ws3K2bGCsU2hwvDNZowJ36NNXjaI1bo-D-x9syoD7RrLTxPSLh5awlrvGhSDGeyxGwURjmo-peifs9axhmLPL_F3kXGSmYbtgtibBcvntS4N0tZVlTrQsYfwiD4i-BWT5xDotI-D/s1600/fire+blazing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfZhC2ws3K2bGCsU2hwvDNZowJ36NNXjaI1bo-D-x9syoD7RrLTxPSLh5awlrvGhSDGeyxGwURjmo-peifs9axhmLPL_F3kXGSmYbtgtibBcvntS4N0tZVlTrQsYfwiD4i-BWT5xDotI-D/s320/fire+blazing.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fire the oven for 2 to 3 hours, with a nice hot fire. Then let the fire go to embers. If you made a fairly large oven, you can distribute the coals around the back perimeter of the oven to keep it hotter longer. Otherwise, pull all of the fire out (into something non-flammable, non-meltable) and clean the oven floor with a damp cotton mop or cotton T-shirt.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTljHxYXvXhFYhR_vUNa-Px-y2r1SGMouIgGwNhW6YFC24rw5sdENlnNDFXfrrjxBP6OUCCvmr0-1e8xXXaBfFy87BitCfhysco7CXyW0oZNZhY011O3PPGzX8cVRFqgHuQziwNZS8H1Cb/s1600/making+pizza.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTljHxYXvXhFYhR_vUNa-Px-y2r1SGMouIgGwNhW6YFC24rw5sdENlnNDFXfrrjxBP6OUCCvmr0-1e8xXXaBfFy87BitCfhysco7CXyW0oZNZhY011O3PPGzX8cVRFqgHuQziwNZS8H1Cb/s320/making+pizza.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Put the door on for about 20 minutes to let the temperatures come to equilibrium, and then bake pizza, bread, casseroles, cookies, pies, and anything else your heart desires. As the oven gets to around 100 degrees, you can even use it to culture yogurt. And keep a well-fitting door on the oven to keep the heat in.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</h4>
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</div>
<br />
<h2>
<span style="font-size: large;">Still not clear? Watch these videos that show you the step-by-step process for building a cob oven.</span></h2>
Building the floor of the oven & the sand mold for the oven cavity<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/SFuGzhPxofE" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
Building the thermal mass layer (that will heat up when you build your fire) & the insulating layer that keeps the oven hot longer.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/m7Ym01q_Mcg" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
Digging out the sand form & baking your first pizza.<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Wa84y0Le4QI" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
Happy baking!!</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com240tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-27446514913102655632013-05-25T08:00:00.000-04:002013-05-26T18:11:15.357-04:00Collaborate with the sun...passive solar design basicsPassive solar design takes advantage of solar orientation and other climate conditions to minimize (and in some conditions, eliminate) heating and cooling requirements for a building.<br />
<br />
<h2>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2SwJnJ7NCpXPdSBzbeX8wklcB0hMR2l0jRdSHx32S-BZSImdB6iGeao4oxJkPoDWhCOnOd-8153i8TnVHnxnLMqDsg3LVU1pO8k6M6OvV9n6An4_JIKTMHMAHLhohxYRZL9xfe_EqkfZr/s1600/084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2SwJnJ7NCpXPdSBzbeX8wklcB0hMR2l0jRdSHx32S-BZSImdB6iGeao4oxJkPoDWhCOnOd-8153i8TnVHnxnLMqDsg3LVU1pO8k6M6OvV9n6An4_JIKTMHMAHLhohxYRZL9xfe_EqkfZr/s400/084.JPG" width="321" /></span></a><b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The name says it all...</span></b></h2>
<br />
<b><u>PASSIVE</u> </b>= no mechanical parts & minimal if any maintenance<br />
<br />
<b><u>SOLAR</u></b> = uses (free) energy from the sun<br />
<br />
<b><u>DESIGN</u> </b>= integrated into the building design<br />
<br />
The result is free heating (& cooling) that works because of how a building is design, so it cannot break. What a win! <i> (If I'm ever in charge, all building will have to be designed this way...but that's another story...)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b><br /></b></span>
<br />
<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">The basics are simple!</span></b></h2>
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<h3>
1. Properly orient your building relative to the sun</h3>
<div>
The easiest direction to control when the sun enters your space is from the South side (see #2 below). This means, that you want to orient the longest side of your building along an East-West axis and a maximum amount of your building faces South. You can rotate 15-degrees either way without much effect, and rotate up to 30-degrees off that axis and still be over 90% efficient, so you have some play. But for maximum efficiency, set your longest facade to face due South (North, if you live in the Southern hemisphere...) And make sure the windows facing South will receive un-obstructed sunshine from at 10 AM to 2 PM <i>(9 AM to 3PM is even better)</i>...this means no buildings, no trees, or anything else that will shade the South-facing windows. Whatever percentage shade you have, that is the percentage of efficiency loss you have.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
2. Use the sun's angle to your advantage</h3>
<div>
Have you ever noticed that the angle of the sun in the sky is lower on the horizon in Winter and almost overhead in Summer? <b>Well, you can use that fact to your advantage</b>...bringing low Winter sunshine into a house to heat it (for free) when it's cold outside. But also shading shading from that hot Summer sun is easy because the sun is nearly overhead...and no sun streaming in during hot Summers means free cooling too (because no heat gain). You can see a graphic of that below, with a building section through a 2-story passive solar house. On the lower floor, there is <b>a thermal mass cob wall</b>, 1/2 of which is in full sunlight in Winter. That means the cob wall <b>heats up</b> (again, for free) during the day, and releases that heat slowly overnight. That same thermal mass wall is completely shaded in the Summer, so it is a heat sink for excess warmth in the air (ie, it provides free cooling power all Summer).<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18Z3S0h5OjDlhPlID60VhnA2X14FzDML-2HqySKWHJNQFawm26ONgBnhySMCWRKdWk6KhNdTIGqMqOPOknvWH9L7nbM9aV0DjWMYn9d5qMu75cqfzLgMv7OF-hX43vN4f4GiRh12jNif_/s1600/passive+solar+angles.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="321" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18Z3S0h5OjDlhPlID60VhnA2X14FzDML-2HqySKWHJNQFawm26ONgBnhySMCWRKdWk6KhNdTIGqMqOPOknvWH9L7nbM9aV0DjWMYn9d5qMu75cqfzLgMv7OF-hX43vN4f4GiRh12jNif_/s400/passive+solar+angles.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">solar angles on the South side, Winter vs. Summer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h3>
3. Size your South-facing window appropriately</h3>
<div>
The biggest mistake made with a passive solar home is to make the Windows on the South too large. This means you will end up with too much heat gain (especially in temperate Spring & Fall weather). The size of your windows is calculated at a percentage of the total space that window will heat. The percentage used in the calculation depends on the climate where you are building. Generally speaking, the window area should be between 7% and 15% of the interior floor area.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
You also need to consider the size of windows facing North, East, & West. The windows on those sides help tremendously with the comfort of your interior space, becase windows on at least 2 sides of every room means better quality light & means excellent natural ventilation. But, consider these tips as well:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
windows on the <b><u>WEST</u> </b>are your biggest source of heat gain, because the angle of the sun at the hottest part of the day in Summer is streaming in at a low angle. The best way to shade to this side is some well-placed trees. If you don't have landscape shading, then minimize the window openings on the West.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
windows on the <b><u>EAST</u> </b>can contribute a bit to heat gain in Summer (for the same reason), EXCEPT, that the morning sun is at the coolest time of day, so not quite as detrimental to your interior comfort. I use windows to the East for balanced morning light and to improve airflow.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
windows on the <b><u>NORTH</u> </b>provide excellent light quality and cannot contribute to heat gain, however, large North-facing windows can mean lots of heat loss in the Winter (since windows are not as insulating as walls. I use smaller windows to the North side, and try to put closets & bathrooms on that side of the house.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRn7qmxXh843V8PRSTEFrGJUSUy2sK7_h3we6KjZ5OGEeRI-l0gjFMNUYCcarqEhQoe9YENrvntr2vI0Oshxl0LU3y08PcETrmOi-GK7e8fqUtckoM6vMgc411J5njim3ss8kPJGChW3I-/s1600/E-ACDR-rear.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRn7qmxXh843V8PRSTEFrGJUSUy2sK7_h3we6KjZ5OGEeRI-l0gjFMNUYCcarqEhQoe9YENrvntr2vI0Oshxl0LU3y08PcETrmOi-GK7e8fqUtckoM6vMgc411J5njim3ss8kPJGChW3I-/s320/E-ACDR-rear.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical amount of South-facing window area for a house<br />
(the West has only very small windows and the East is<br />
shaded by the garage; the North side has mostly closets,<br />
bathrooms, and the kitchen, so also smaller windows)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3>
4. Build a closed room at your entry</h3>
<div>
This simple strategy is often overlooked, but is quite effective. The principle here is again simple: when you open your outside door, there is a nearly 100% air exchange between inside air & outside air. That means whatever room your door opens into, loses all of it's warm air in Winter (or cool air in Summer) and is replaced by whatever temperature air is outside. Simple way to minimize the effect of that? Open the exterior doors to a smaller room that isn't part of your living space. This space should be insulated, but does not need heating & cooling (it will stay within 10-degrees of the rest of your house). But absolutely, positively, it needs a door between that entry room and the rest of the house. That's what keeps the air exchange to a minimum.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYIgcBFiLJEm88By6CQcmuqEORqHeUhPA4UeUXF1cMgs7Mrgh4QUOgy3o5JveTK09n_jjH4eLJ3Gc3HFIcU2rge33CwutDx9_nqeZiHOAguJukos_AE9RbByd5DA_bdD-fKyhgIRbFSZx/s1600/GB-int-entry2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLYIgcBFiLJEm88By6CQcmuqEORqHeUhPA4UeUXF1cMgs7Mrgh4QUOgy3o5JveTK09n_jjH4eLJ3Gc3HFIcU2rge33CwutDx9_nqeZiHOAguJukos_AE9RbByd5DA_bdD-fKyhgIRbFSZx/s400/GB-int-entry2.jpg" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">this is a glass door on the inside of an entry space,<br />
with another glass door leading to outside...plenty<br />
of light and connection, without the energy loss</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The entry room can also be where you dump coats, hats, boots, shoes, etc. (Ok, maybe not dump...it can all have a nice neat place to get put, but you get the idea...)<br />
<br />
<h2>
<b><span style="font-size: x-large;">Recommended Reads</span></b></h2>
</div>
<div>
This is above and beyond my favorite book on passive solar design. Out of print, so hard to find, but snag it if you find it...and read it twice!</div>
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<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VNM20C/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcQtQJJz8bKAe4oYTs3Z45A-Yd1AJdQKGlFNltERhHkxcPo_fqEiF__zKXPb66Sn_YEwAGPvElmUb7VP1s2v8XbVzYH2vJklQLw0phyZQdPIrJxhzKltkJzcwEIl6wYUH3_0O54b27lFah/s1600/ThePassiveSolarEnergyBook.jpg" /></a></div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-28638812409375131592013-04-26T18:59:00.000-04:002013-04-26T20:09:57.290-04:00Practical Strawbale Specifics: WALL SECTION<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I wanted to start sharing some practical nuts-and-bolts information on natural building. Starting here with some wall sections that describe the construction of a strawbale wall for an actual project. A wall section is simply an architectural drawing that shows the construction -- bottom to top -- of a wall system. The notes in this example are somewhat generic, though some are project-specific. If you click the image you should link to the full size version of this drawing. WARNING: it's a really large file, so may take some time to load (depending on your internet speed). Or feel free to download so you can zoom at will. But please note that this is copyright protected, so do not share or use without express written permission.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLMX105YT5yCCzOxH_gLjAcgV9eDKZjBa6jN-Z6Ozk4JifNeEct-FMwtgHSZe6Z_zEryvsHiI9iGDq12tqhmGRTIvv9BuaZWyy96YLcw5NEpnFNCMYHargEdhWHp2qcOZ_vmRDpUup4Xb9/s1600/JMDG-wall+section.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLMX105YT5yCCzOxH_gLjAcgV9eDKZjBa6jN-Z6Ozk4JifNeEct-FMwtgHSZe6Z_zEryvsHiI9iGDq12tqhmGRTIvv9BuaZWyy96YLcw5NEpnFNCMYHargEdhWHp2qcOZ_vmRDpUup4Xb9/s320/JMDG-wall+section.jpg" width="263" /></a></div>
This particular project features rubble trench foundations, shown at the base of the wall, and strawbale exterior walls with lime plaster outside and clay plaster inside. Also shown are roof tie-in, second floor framing, and a lower porch roof where it meets the strawbale wall. This project (as all of my strawbale buildings) received a standard building permit for construction.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Please feel free to post questions!!</h3>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-32720282645424768152013-03-30T08:00:00.000-04:002013-04-01T16:31:33.588-04:00One Person's Waste...Is Another's Treasure<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Salvaging building materials brings new life to otherwise discarded items. Figuring how to reuse materials can inspire creativity and save loads of money in construction costs. But you need to have a plan, or you risk spinning your wheels and burning out from all the leg-work involved.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nekVIGzwdeSftnVjDUffuvj8jZ25mlIC-tQrvhmdAmRML9g5OeoaYqgn5ZQO0pQpd6-Q0bVfJsaDClwkPCuvmKC29yyAp-OQtU7Ehq9q7YnZ659_719Hb5_dPyT9_TuMQCjg6RGAxLLl/s1600/SLDG-exterior.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6nekVIGzwdeSftnVjDUffuvj8jZ25mlIC-tQrvhmdAmRML9g5OeoaYqgn5ZQO0pQpd6-Q0bVfJsaDClwkPCuvmKC29yyAp-OQtU7Ehq9q7YnZ659_719Hb5_dPyT9_TuMQCjg6RGAxLLl/s320/SLDG-exterior.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">all of the windows for this house are high-quality & energy-<br />
efficient....and yes, they were all salvaged at huge cost savings</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<div style="text-align: left;">
Below is the process that I share with my clients who want to make the most of salvage building materials in construction. The key to success and keeping stress to a minimum is to <u style="font-weight: bold;">start early</u> and have a plan! And don't forget to plan for a place to store what you find that ensures your materials stay protected.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<h3>
Salvage-Hunting Process...</h3>
<div>
</div>
</div>
<h4>
STEP ONE: make a list</h4>
Start by making a list of materials you will need for the project. This way you know immediately when you see something interesting whether or not you can use it. Try to avoid just purchasing items with a "maybe this will work...somewhere..." attitude. You will end up spending a lot of time & money needlessly.<br />
You also will want to track your list. I use a spreadsheet with at least the following columns:<br />
<ul>
<li>item (doors, windows, sinks, flooring, etc.)</li>
<li>location (this helps you keep track of your salvage items)</li>
<li>minimum size (what's the smallest your item can be)</li>
<li>maximum size (what's the largest your item can be)</li>
<li>special requirements & notes (to help you remember any specifics)</li>
</ul>
The goal is to have a shopping list to take with you as you go salvage hunting, with reminders of any limitations or special needs that each item has.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeS1r-ZsLT_Nf8s7reXWton7NE1a6SCYG5nNwB3bRwJqJa55yw-hYNWMhZisqSjAUbnnOTWdPBEgRKvMLgZ2Dv523DtSwG_z8w8DHfwbSxVo0j476zaDOqd_UHYTKwLkSRVbt622YKj7h/s1600/TBB-booth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeS1r-ZsLT_Nf8s7reXWton7NE1a6SCYG5nNwB3bRwJqJa55yw-hYNWMhZisqSjAUbnnOTWdPBEgRKvMLgZ2Dv523DtSwG_z8w8DHfwbSxVo0j476zaDOqd_UHYTKwLkSRVbt622YKj7h/s320/TBB-booth.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">This built-in nook makes use of a salvaged church pew, cut to fit.<br />(The client had "two 4-foot nook benches" in their shopping list.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
<br /></h4>
<h4>
STEP TWO: prioritize your list</h4>
Big items that can save you the most money include, doors & windows (see more info below), cabinets & counters, fixtures, and flooring. Other items can include framing lumber, railings, overstock insulation, patio pavers, etc. You can prioritize your list one of two ways:<br />
<ol>
<li>By construction timing - which item do you need first, second, third, etc. to keep your construction process flowing smoothly. I think this method is best if your plan is to do your salvage hunting concurrent with the construction process.</li>
<li>By which items can provide the greatest cost savings potential, such as windows, doors, and cabinets. This allows you to start looking for the items that give you the biggest dollar savings for your time spent, and by the time you get to the smaller items on the list you will be a salvage pro.</li>
</ol>
If you aren't sure how much energy you have in you for the salving hunt, then I would do option #2. That way, if you start getting overwhelmed by the salvaging, at least you have collected big savings items.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLF0hC4jRmc17iJDj-gMCfdyq4v2CnbyKDYpDNwm636Dye4UYq0o5hrIB-PV8wFbV0wLuGpt8du5oNIldbSjbXZ_ot-EeAOw3cdVUbmemeao1PLBUpQ6IkPDLoRxgDusmEG7qbTAXxV7GF/s1600/SZkitchen-intdoor.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLF0hC4jRmc17iJDj-gMCfdyq4v2CnbyKDYpDNwm636Dye4UYq0o5hrIB-PV8wFbV0wLuGpt8du5oNIldbSjbXZ_ot-EeAOw3cdVUbmemeao1PLBUpQ6IkPDLoRxgDusmEG7qbTAXxV7GF/s320/SZkitchen-intdoor.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This interior door is an old salvage door with single-pane glass...<br />not suitable for exterior use...but great for creating interior sound<br />separation while keeping visual connection between the spaces.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
<br /></h4>
<h4>
STEP THREE: research baseline pricing</h4>
<div>
In order to ensure that you don't overpay for your salvage items, you will need to do a little bit of research on what your items would cost if you purchased them new. This can feel like a big task when you first start, but you will start to get the swing of it as you become a salvage hunting expert.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMTMNWRLF5-BOzn9BjEINx3wu6C1HhtrX3xclluPH7pQx6Nb7UtOnzqihM2tFq8XLQddzkk31cR_JWXwM3c9WUYIeWRH6zYG7EqdlJ2NNKgwWRc8p4yUrKIh7xb5XoAMrUhPmH6spZqEN/s1600/TBB-bar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMTMNWRLF5-BOzn9BjEINx3wu6C1HhtrX3xclluPH7pQx6Nb7UtOnzqihM2tFq8XLQddzkk31cR_JWXwM3c9WUYIeWRH6zYG7EqdlJ2NNKgwWRc8p4yUrKIh7xb5XoAMrUhPmH6spZqEN/s320/TBB-bar.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This counter is made of 3" thick maple, from a repurposed bowling<br />alley floor. The total cost was 10% of what the counter would<br />have cost for new maple (or other solid-surface countertop).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
</div>
<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
STEP FOUR: don't give up performance</h4>
For items that have a performance implication, make sure you take that into consideration. Otherwise you are saving upfront costs, only to find you need to spend money again later for higher energy bills or for replacement. Performance criteria include:<br />
<ul>
<li>durability</li>
<li>energy efficiency</li>
<li>structural integrity</li>
</ul>
For example, if salvage wood will be used structurally, it should be structural grade, show no signs of rot, be free of compromising holes, etc. For windows, you will want energy efficient, double glazed windows in good condition. If the windows are used for passive solar gain in the winter, the windows also need to NOT have low-e glazing on them. For appliances, you still want them to be energy efficient. You get the idea...<br />
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49Ted9mVblsbCB20uiy5XsEo7B1Fcu4sjsUXXLPNRjaWfLHC5Q1kXSN6z0BSBw22uMNz3VC0_z0PSn4fIUaMowLHMmHBvFPI1ax4SkCKpF_SG8I21nVo7FL96gWzKSPzGJLyE9G_Q49D6/s1600/lumber.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi49Ted9mVblsbCB20uiy5XsEo7B1Fcu4sjsUXXLPNRjaWfLHC5Q1kXSN6z0BSBw22uMNz3VC0_z0PSn4fIUaMowLHMmHBvFPI1ax4SkCKpF_SG8I21nVo7FL96gWzKSPzGJLyE9G_Q49D6/s320/lumber.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">These wooden posts were salvage from 75+ year old building.<br /> The wood is hard and dense, and in great shape. We had a<br />structural engineer inspect the wood before using it to build with.<br />(It could also be milled into beautiful flooring or trim.)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<h4>
<br /></h4>
<h4>
STEP FIVE: put in the time</h4>
Salvaging requires quite a bit of time & patience, so keep that in mind as you jump in. And this is why I recommend <b><u>starting early</u></b> so you don't find yourself overwhelmed by a "holy heck we need this door tomorrow" moment. I have included salvage resources that I find to be the most helpful in the region that I work (greater Washington DC/Baltimore MD region). Feel free to post comments below to share your favorite building material salvage resources.<br />
<div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuJX4e2myvjNGnQ5WR2jDoZjpZ6wlWZsek3zcz0VCXObq4X6dhfsOBmZmOlBGuf1OanP5tc4sx9hyphenhyphenbnlt0tNyfWTObs4-kDLtmioQoKUDYHBibjKbwT7G4nNtY2SQt44x-JwX7z1YmyZ-/s1600/TBB-balcony2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxuJX4e2myvjNGnQ5WR2jDoZjpZ6wlWZsek3zcz0VCXObq4X6dhfsOBmZmOlBGuf1OanP5tc4sx9hyphenhyphenbnlt0tNyfWTObs4-kDLtmioQoKUDYHBibjKbwT7G4nNtY2SQt44x-JwX7z1YmyZ-/s320/TBB-balcony2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This metal railing was reused from another part of the same house!<br />The addition was built over a flat-roofed garage...the garage had a<br />railing all the way around, that was removed to build this art room.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br />
<h3>
Some specific Tips...</h3>
Salvage doors and windows usually provide the biggest savings for your time investment. For windows, you have a few options. One is can find local companies that specialize in selling new & replacement windows. They often have a room in the back of new windows that were ordered wrong or were never picked up...orphans, if you will...that they are happy to sell at a discount. It takes a lot of legwork, but this is a great way to get high quality, new windows for a fraction of the cost.<br />
Used furniture can be nicely converted into a funky bathroom vanity. You can check yard sales, local thrift shops, and even drive by upper-income neighborhoods early on trash day.<br />
Another great resource is to check for a local Habitat for Humanity "Restore". They sell donated, salvaged building materials & appliances at a great discount. See <a href="http://www.habitat.org/restores">www.habitat.org/restores</a> to search for a ReStore resale outlet nearest you. Proceeds go directly back to Habitat for Humanity.</div>
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<br />
<h3>
RESOURCES</h3>
These are my most-used resources in the Washington DC/Baltimore MD metro region.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.secondchanceinc.org/">www.secondchanceinc.org</a> (in Baltimore)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.rebuildwarehouse.org/">www.rebuildwarehouse.org</a> (in VA, but they have a lot of salvage building materials)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.communityforklift.com/">www.communityforklift.com</a> (just outside of DC, in Maryland)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.restorenova.org/">www.restorenova.org</a> (Alexandria, VA)</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-91998494048327044562013-03-16T10:20:00.000-04:002013-03-29T19:46:07.787-04:00Building Small Has a Big Payback<span style="font-family: inherit;">Let's get one thing straight right away...When I say "small", I don't mean living in a shoe box. What I mean by "small" is living in a space that is designed...well designed...for your needs...and no more. A small space doesn't mean cramped. What makes a space feel comfortable in a home is not how big it is. Actually, an expansive space can feel intimidating and alienating, instead of intimate. Great for large gatherings, but otherwise rarely invoke comfort in a home.</span><br />
<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">A space that feels comfortable is appropriately sized for its intended activity.</span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeS1r-ZsLT_Nf8s7reXWton7NE1a6SCYG5nNwB3bRwJqJa55yw-hYNWMhZisqSjAUbnnOTWdPBEgRKvMLgZ2Dv523DtSwG_z8w8DHfwbSxVo0j476zaDOqd_UHYTKwLkSRVbt622YKj7h/s1600/TBB-booth.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYeS1r-ZsLT_Nf8s7reXWton7NE1a6SCYG5nNwB3bRwJqJa55yw-hYNWMhZisqSjAUbnnOTWdPBEgRKvMLgZ2Dv523DtSwG_z8w8DHfwbSxVo0j476zaDOqd_UHYTKwLkSRVbt622YKj7h/s320/TBB-booth.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For example, the nook above is in a house with kids. The parents wanted a game & homework spot for their kids. We could have designed an extra room, a play room with desks. But this disconnects the kids' area from the family. So instead, we designed this nook with built-in benches & a table that is right off the living room. The kids play games and do homework at the table, and can leave everything out and messy without adding disarray to the family living space. And the size is less than 25 SF instead of 150 SF for a play room. At construction costs over $125 per square foot, that puts the direct cost savings at over $15,000.<br />
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<span style="color: black; font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></span></div>
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<b style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;">Why build small?</b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">Building to the size you need (and no more) offers many tangible benefits (besides feeling more comfortable and intimate). The most obvious benefit, is that a smaller building means fewer materials, which means lower upfront costs for construction. A smaller house also means lower ongoing bills, since there is less space to heat or cool. And my personal favorite benefit, is that a smaller space means less to clean!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-large;"><b><u>4 design strategies</u></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">So how to build smaller without feeling cramped? Below are 4 design strategies that make small spaces feel comfortable without feeling claustrophobic.</span><br />
<ul></ul>
<div>
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<h3>
1. connect to outdoors</h3>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
One way to make a small space feel more expansive is to connect it visually and/or literally to the outdoors, using windows or glass doors. When you can see beyond the room you are in, your brain sort of "borrows" the space beyond and adds it to expand the one you are in. This is true whether connecting two interior spaces together or adding a visual link to outside.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-_1xE0zRrE5m5q-J6G0-6Cgq7nThXOpsLWPekuIIcGOZ1qP_ygKqSWwDzZJ9daubc0uiloif5Gf2_FVXTj6OrcnXawAmTSG6fh2CCiZRXSip7zASAp4ZkWFvzkuOikE8zf7xpSiMe1aN/s1600/GB-int-entry2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA-_1xE0zRrE5m5q-J6G0-6Cgq7nThXOpsLWPekuIIcGOZ1qP_ygKqSWwDzZJ9daubc0uiloif5Gf2_FVXTj6OrcnXawAmTSG6fh2CCiZRXSip7zASAp4ZkWFvzkuOikE8zf7xpSiMe1aN/s320/GB-int-entry2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
2. excellent well-lit space</h3>
A well-lit space feels larger than a dark space...and natural sunlight creates the best quality light. Designing for excellent light quality means each major space should have sunlight entering from windows on at least 2 directions...that includes light from above. Light entering from two different sides of a room fills in shade spots, balances the light, and reduces glare. Light colored surfaces also help to bounce light within the space.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03c6bXUinxfJu-aJSjRTZzLiSmnREZjdHrJf45onD65gvQblejQ2ZTqqqb4axxKRuRkFiY0N2msMFEJ6hEpBhCvSom2cVRkgP296_dvGOU_yOXCS-BsAIZTweGErKZoDDTwUOSaIUgbf6/s1600/HIJY-livingroom.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi03c6bXUinxfJu-aJSjRTZzLiSmnREZjdHrJf45onD65gvQblejQ2ZTqqqb4axxKRuRkFiY0N2msMFEJ6hEpBhCvSom2cVRkgP296_dvGOU_yOXCS-BsAIZTweGErKZoDDTwUOSaIUgbf6/s320/HIJY-livingroom.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<h3>
3. delineate space without walls</h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are many, many ways to demarcate where one space ends and another begins without using solid walls. And when you combine uses </span>into a single space...<span style="font-family: inherit;">like cooking with eating...the total footprint can be smaller with the same functionality. That's because the circulation space is shared. <i>(Circulation space refers to the floor area needed for moving around.)</i> So, if you aren't using walls to separate the space, you can use other strategies to mark where one ends and the other begins...like a set of columns, or a kitchen island, or a change in floor material, or a change in ceiling height or material...</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2ZM5Q7xyM1nz3nLNNkCIwoVh4nDCZGBUGtqNAES2OuMCaokBhMgOaCLC9KTlHC-aStNq1T5uDUej087MsbGwTRetKd0psliEPz6nhtpfHTX9PUPjAWyjXE8A_e71_r1vnC_iKNfNTfsA/s1600/TBB-living2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2ZM5Q7xyM1nz3nLNNkCIwoVh4nDCZGBUGtqNAES2OuMCaokBhMgOaCLC9KTlHC-aStNq1T5uDUej087MsbGwTRetKd0psliEPz6nhtpfHTX9PUPjAWyjXE8A_e71_r1vnC_iKNfNTfsA/s320/TBB-living2.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<h3>
4. integrate storage</h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are so many creative strategies for integrating storage throughout a house...under stairs, built-in benches with storage, shelving within the wall thickness. You can store more stuff in less space with a well-designed cabinet than you can in a closet, especially a walk-in closet. Kindof like a boat interior...where no space is goes wasted.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPw2ckkxkmh5LOqOOKq930OgJJ9751eEste3Fvw7Aiyc5vVioA_nBsL8pbXXNqUUbvAe8ezqDVpdIbFyMltUIacvKk3uEF2FS5ur0SfxwViyc_Gv4eUdhqW70mvDFMFAbthDilkzcrqVB/s1600/BTR-stair+storage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrPw2ckkxkmh5LOqOOKq930OgJJ9751eEste3Fvw7Aiyc5vVioA_nBsL8pbXXNqUUbvAe8ezqDVpdIbFyMltUIacvKk3uEF2FS5ur0SfxwViyc_Gv4eUdhqW70mvDFMFAbthDilkzcrqVB/s320/BTR-stair+storage.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjwamwg_Ocbi6oZIrx9gMKfgOOfRCbDdGVZ5YwfsW_JzBJ2bosVGTFBPvhKbzffYv-_RXaNaE3k89_T3FWCu08jdIxUPHWbbAEuOa4Ihp3CLhEgvMXyXY9t6Ja34ehVXQoElXBcCjrA4k/s1600/TBB-secretdoor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbjwamwg_Ocbi6oZIrx9gMKfgOOfRCbDdGVZ5YwfsW_JzBJ2bosVGTFBPvhKbzffYv-_RXaNaE3k89_T3FWCu08jdIxUPHWbbAEuOa4Ihp3CLhEgvMXyXY9t6Ja34ehVXQoElXBcCjrA4k/s320/TBB-secretdoor.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<b style="font-size: x-large;"><u><span style="font-family: inherit;">Resources</span></u></b><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;">There are some great books on designing appropriately-sized homes. Any of Sarah Susanka's "Not So Big House" books are fabulous (my favorite is below). The others here offer inspirational photos & examples of small home designs. Click the book covers for more info or to purchase.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561586056/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhipr3h3G-2R8iJPcYr4PgkHK9iQ80hHJ2YdqeeB3FtJ_Z8U3W84LSJyXXlvPtmRJqj-8S_ZBJfKZELwFHYwu1hREVaohB_TbUTnnXPl52CzMKv1r6rVFGFe66LOtB1YnLgfN8i1NFG1OfJ/s1600/CreatingNotSoBigHouse.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0789320959/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqAzTVGZp617l-ENNZwxG02sI_pG34rngabbOB-fd4T-OztB7rNX2FnRzMZ9JjjFGwoZ8fkmHc1RvDwLyICzIl9dMp5OJeaw8P2UypoG74pTC-Ee4NMbXcpmwm7BELa8RJcI1tWB-4YSW/s1600/SmallEcoHouses.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1579123651/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge7vVnOEzoGlMbQsm9awoav3aV1-PQX3BizOiugCUhJxBhGVzCl_fR3_yXK8ew24Rx3AgaPDvcYeiGahR5icGVQdWovQUMNsS-OLi9u5G_CgMd89C4QY9aoyUjTnCT90Sp-NJTpIQfN9Dk/s1600/SmallHouseDesigns.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0789313499/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4knjc1O_P6MVGJL0JvuIMWbjylPNOrX0hWDpOV7pVx3EG6o5QvVujxupFfBDtajnZlz-ZwR2fKSz9cj_qfSEPxSDeEN4Ku4zSKWRaPm_aw2i9fN7SaTDIMUZviSOG1qxJEWn4a8PN2i4a/s1600/CompactHouses.jpg" /></a></span></div>
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For more photos & tips for designing smaller, smarter spaces, see our <a href="https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.529692970388198.120328.171782289512603&type=3">facebook album</a>.<br />
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-33423875037260617502013-03-02T08:00:00.000-05:002015-10-13T08:54:34.290-04:00Make Natural, Non-Toxic Paint from CLAY!<br />
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The particles of clay are like mini suction cups, which makes clay a superb sticky binder! Sticky binder, means you have a great way to put pigment (paint) on a wall. And it's completely natural & non-toxic.</div>
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This clay paint recipe can be made from finely sifted clay soil or powdered potter's clay. If you use clay soil, test it first to determine the proportions of clay to sand, and adjust the recipe below accordingly. You can watch our video on how to test your soil for clay content on youtube:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/hh211b8b5FE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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This clay paint recipe has an additional binder that helps prevent the paint from being dusty once it dries...that is, wheat paste...which is made simply by boiling flour & water. Wheat paste can also be used as a glue. (When we were kids, we used it for a variety of projects, from paper <span class="st">mâché</span> to installing wallpaper.)</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Alis/Clay Paint</b></span><br />
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<i>thick, opaque finish
for absorbent wall surfaces; ideal over clay plasters or smooth cob<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>1 gallon water<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>4 quarts powdered clay<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>2 quarts fine sand<o:p></o:p></b></span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>1 quart wheat paste</b></span><i> (see recipe below)</i></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>Pigment, whiting, mica, or
chopped straw, as desired</b></span><span style="color: #993300;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Mix all ingredients together thoroughly, with a large whisk
or a paint mixer attachment on a drill (or similar). Final consistency should be between heavy
cream (before it is whipped) and yogurt.
Apply thickly with a good bristle brush.
When leather hard (slightly firm), smooth the surface by buffing with a
damp tile sponge. Rinse the sponge
frequently. Optional final surface
treatment: buff with a very flexible Japanese trowel or polished stone, or buff with a dry cloth.</div>
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<i>Covers approx. 150 SF</i></div>
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<b>Note on color:</b> you can choose a clay that is the color you want your paint to be...ie, a rusty orange clay will make rusty orange paint. Or you can use a white base clay and add any natural pigment to achieve any variety of colors, from earthy shades to vibrant colors. I use pigments from <a href="http://www.earthpigments.com/">www.earthpigments.com</a> or <a href="http://www.bioshieldpaint.com/">www.bioshieldpaint.com</a>.</div>
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<b style="font-size: x-large;">Wheat Paste</b><br />
<i>binder added to
clay paint</i><br />
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Bring <span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>1 quart water</b></span>
to boil in a non-aluminum pot.
Meanwhile, mix <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 cup flour</span></b> with <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 cup cold water</span></b> until smooth and lump free. (If you can’t get it lump free, run through a
strainer.) When water in pot is boiling,
slowly add in flour/water mixture, stirring constantly. Bring back to almost a boil, stirring
constantly, until mixture thickens.
Remove from heat and allow to cool completely. The top will get a skin on it as it cools. You can prevent that by stirring as the mixture cools, or by putting a piece of plastic wrap against the surface as it cools. Or simply peel the skin off before using the wheat paste. Make wheat paste within a day or two of when
you will use it. It will go rancid after
a few days (faster in warm weather), and then is not usable.</div>
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<i>Makes approx. 5
cups of wheat paste<o:p></o:p></i></div>
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<b style="font-size: x-large;">Resources</b><br />
<div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
For more general information about natural paints, and links to other natural paint recipes, see our previous blog post: <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/01/paint-it-green-with-natural-paints.html">Paint it Green!...with natural paints</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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I included this book in my last post, but it really is by far my favorite book on natural paint. The format resembles a cookbook...recipes on one side and a photo of what the paint looks like on the other. This book contains tons of information and inspiration.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8bT5ri5oqTURiVNcwLZRPS5b8jAHH7VLoiEiNFQTRnA6GblldUoQZiBThwX-BbPuk7Qs07OHNXSeW435VF_6kQgJ0DySRi3FeTEAd0BQF_vH_9b6GWKkh8pB5QnNLhA8itTSDPKUJHC-/s1600/NaturalPaintBook.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click cover for more info or to purchase</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com79tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-69480889106703413662013-02-16T08:00:00.000-05:002013-03-07T14:15:56.631-05:00Don't be left with egg on your face...make paint instead!Have you ever let egg dry on your plate and then tried to wash it off? Pretty tough, huh? That's because eggs are great glue...which means they are great for making paint! You can make two completely different paints with eggs...one paint using the yolk and one with the whites.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwdMAV8SEch6tAQOLRPuINBS22SxhSE1-1KV5-dYHFW0daU4_Rmd1KGJd7XnhxBlgeexCMJZO8j_CAxOwBIb5fspEZv4BDAdSD0iSqFrga1QhHhOq075rEyUBDDB_5EknTF2TeYi3Fp93/s1600/MENF-egg+paint.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwdMAV8SEch6tAQOLRPuINBS22SxhSE1-1KV5-dYHFW0daU4_Rmd1KGJd7XnhxBlgeexCMJZO8j_CAxOwBIb5fspEZv4BDAdSD0iSqFrga1QhHhOq075rEyUBDDB_5EknTF2TeYi3Fp93/s320/MENF-egg+paint.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">these kids learned how to make egg yolk paint in</span><br /><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">5 minutes...and then spent hours of fun painting!</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Egg Yolk Paint...also called Egg Tempera</span></b><br />
Egg yolk paint is super creamy, opaque, and durable. It's great for painting furniture or artwork. You could use it to paint a wall too, but it would take quite a few eggs.<br />
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<b>The recipe is simple:</b><br />
Separate an egg <i>(keep the whites...see below)</i> and let the yolk sit for a few minutes until the skin wrinkles slightly when touched. Pinch or pop the skin of the yolk and drain the yellow liquid into a dish. <i>(Discard the sac.)</i> Add up to 1/2 teaspoon of pigment per egg and stir thoroughly. And voila! You can add a little water as desired if you want to thin the paint. Use this paint right away, because it dries quickly...though continues to harden over several days. You can layer the paint on furniture or walls, but I recommend waiting 24 hours between coats.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Egg White Paint</span></b><br />
Don't waste the other 1/2 of the egg...make an egg white paint with it! Egg white paint is just as easy to make, but is more delicate than the egg yolk paint. Use it for surfaces that won't get touched much, like lampshades. This paint is translucent, like water color, and can be layer to achieve more saturated color.<br />
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<b>How to make:</b><br />
Whisk your egg white(s) to get a slight froth, and then let stand for a few minutes until a clear liquid separates on the bottom. Remove the froth and discard. Mix in up to 1/2 teaspoon pigment per egg. This paint dries quickly, so use it right away...<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Resources</span></b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
For more general information about natural paints, and links to other natural paint recipes, see our previous blog post: <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/01/paint-it-green-with-natural-paints.html">Paint it Green!...with natural paints</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
I included this book in my other posts on home made paints, but it really is my favorite book on natural paint. The format resembles a cookbook...recipes on one side and a photo of what the paint looks like on the other. This book contains tons of information and inspiration.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8bT5ri5oqTURiVNcwLZRPS5b8jAHH7VLoiEiNFQTRnA6GblldUoQZiBThwX-BbPuk7Qs07OHNXSeW435VF_6kQgJ0DySRi3FeTEAd0BQF_vH_9b6GWKkh8pB5QnNLhA8itTSDPKUJHC-/s1600/NaturalPaintBook.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click cover for more info or to purchase</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-58308788451516062582013-02-02T08:00:00.000-05:002013-10-21T08:45:37.703-04:00Don't cry over spilled milk...make paint instead!Milk paint, also called casein paint, is actually made from the curds of the milk, so first you sour it to separate the curds from the whey. (See instructions below.) Milk-based paints work well on a variety of absorbent surfaces, such as drywall, clay plaster, clean wood, or paper. The resulting paint has a slight sheen. It is wipable with a damp cloth but not scrubbable, so don't use it on surfaces that get scrubbed clean. That said, if you use milk paint on wood, you can then seal the wood with tung oil or linseed oil for an incredibly beautiful and durable finish. <b>This is a great paint to make with kids!</b> My niece likes to paint with milk paints when she visits.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhbmL4JdbDoZGTuhr6PDS32rSTMjFf_U27ccFG0OS6p52LBfThAbjjI7zaQsl0Sq-b8omHhVJzkqFS2_YiTmPzTVnvnupCl-an-aGVIA3oqoGgS7svgR84uXaH2dL6XsVlGgLyfqdF2tR/s1600/milk+paint-360.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhbmL4JdbDoZGTuhr6PDS32rSTMjFf_U27ccFG0OS6p52LBfThAbjjI7zaQsl0Sq-b8omHhVJzkqFS2_YiTmPzTVnvnupCl-an-aGVIA3oqoGgS7svgR84uXaH2dL6XsVlGgLyfqdF2tR/s320/milk+paint-360.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">paint samples of various milk paint colors (left side is semi-opaque, right side is translucent)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">To make the curds...</span></b><br />
To separate the curds from the whey, you basically are souring milk. You can do this one of two ways: 1) let your milk stand in a warm place for several days, undisturbed, and with the lid slightly off OR 2) you can speed the process up by adding 1/2 cup of white vinegar or lemon juice per gallon of milk. The key is to <b>leave the milk completely undisturbed</b> in order for the curds to develop into large particles. If you shake or stir the milk while it is souring, the curds become small and difficult or impossible to strain out. There is a fabulous instructional video online at: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nb2pE6Ge-0Q">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nb2pE6Ge-0Q</a> <br />
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I have had the best results with 1% or 2% milk, but theoretically any milk will work. <b>Once your milk has soured and separated, you will see white chunks floating over a clear yellowish liquid. </b> This means your milk is done! Strain the curds through a fine strainer or in cheese cloth to discard the liquidy whey. If you are painting walls, I recommend rinsing the curds in cold water a few times to remove any residual whey. <br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>To make milk glaze...</b></span><br />
<b><i>...a translucent pigmented glaze that will cover approximately 40 SF</i></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 cup strained milk curds</span></b> <i>(see above)</i><br />
<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1</span></b><b style="color: #b45f06;">½</b><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"> Tablespoon borax</span></b> (such as 20 Mule Team, available in the laundry aisle of most supermarkets; optional but I always add it if I'm painting a wall)<br />
<b style="color: #b45f06;">¼</b><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"> cup hot water</span></b><br />
approximately <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">2 Tablespoons pigment</span></b> (or as desired)<br />
Dissolve the borax completely in the hot water. Then slowly whisk into the strained milk curds. Stir thoroughly until lump-free. Add pigment to the desired color. This will make a translucent glaze-type paint. If you want to make an opaque paint, you can add 1/2 cup whiting (purchased from an artist supplier and soaked in water overnight) to the recipe above. <b><u>Tip for adding pigment</u>:</b> you can soak your pigment in water overnight and then strain it through cheesecloth if you want to be sure all of your pigment gets fully dissolved in the paint.<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>To make milk paint...</b></span><br />
<b><i>...an opaque pigmented paint that will cover approximately 20 SF</i></b><br />
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>1 cup strained milk curds</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>1½ T borax</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #b45f06;"><b>¼ cup hot water</b><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="color: #b45f06;">2-3T (35g) pigment</b><i> (or as desired)</i><span style="color: #b45f06;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<b style="color: #b45f06;">½ cup (100g) whiting*</b> <i>(soaked in cold water for 24 hours)</i><span style="color: #993300;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Dissolve borax in hot water & allow to cool. Add borax mixture to strained milk curds & stir thoroughly. Add whiting & pigment to desired color. Can be thinned with additional water. Apply in thin coats, allowing each coat to dry between, or the paint will tend to crack or flake off.</div>
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<i>*<b>whiting </b>is high grade calcium carbonate made from finely powdered chalk that can be purchased from any artist supply shop; it is what makes the milk paint opaque.</i></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">To paint with milk glaze or paint...</span></b><br />
Use any standard application technique: brush, roller, or sponge. The translucent glaze can be layered with complimentary colors. Apply the paint in thin coats, allowing each coat to dry completely (about 1 to 2 hours).<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Resources</b></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both;">
For more general information about natural paints, and links to other natural paint recipes, see our previous blog post: <a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/01/paint-it-green-with-natural-paints.html">Paint it Green!...with natural paints</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I included this book in my last post, but it really is by far my favorite book on natural paint. The format resembles a cookbook...recipes on one side and a photo of what the paint looks like on the other. This book contains tons of information and inspiration.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8bT5ri5oqTURiVNcwLZRPS5b8jAHH7VLoiEiNFQTRnA6GblldUoQZiBThwX-BbPuk7Qs07OHNXSeW435VF_6kQgJ0DySRi3FeTEAd0BQF_vH_9b6GWKkh8pB5QnNLhA8itTSDPKUJHC-/s1600/NaturalPaintBook.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">click cover for more info or to purchase<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><br /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-24433303783936762142013-01-19T08:00:00.000-05:002013-03-02T10:53:05.430-05:00Paint it Green! ...with natural paints<div style="text-align: center;">
Make your own natural paints with ingredients from your kitchen </div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHPwXJrmFBjSLL17LVk5xvseJQ4oTqXH-iOOcKHuLOa3E9mwCfO4yNlhMQ-tZnIjLSb1J3VBFasD-uY3gWDyxTHwDqtKblUCVZot5OLZkZ-_YTHIy581tASGhrYiRu27N5ibByM79W0un/s1600/HM-int-paintedwindow.JPG"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfHPwXJrmFBjSLL17LVk5xvseJQ4oTqXH-iOOcKHuLOa3E9mwCfO4yNlhMQ-tZnIjLSb1J3VBFasD-uY3gWDyxTHwDqtKblUCVZot5OLZkZ-_YTHIy581tASGhrYiRu27N5ibByM79W0un/s320/HM-int-paintedwindow.JPG" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><span style="font-size: large;">What is Natural Paint? </span></b><br />
Before there were paint companies, people made their own paint using natural, non-toxic, often edible ingredients. Natural paints are durable, beautiful, and incredibly easy to make. You can purchase manufactured natural paints, but they can be more expensive. You can also make your own natural paints with ingredients from nature and that you probably have in your kitchen. And then you control the ingredients and the color! <br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Benefits </span></b><br />
<ul>
<li><b style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>non-toxic</u>:</span></b> Natural paints do not offgas any chemical toxins into your air, so they are safer to use and safer for your longterm indoor air quality; offgassing ingredients in paint have been linked to dizziness, headaches, and asthsma</li>
<li><span style="font-weight: bold;"><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>no petrochemicals</u>:</span></b> </span>the ingredients in natural paints are derived from nature, not non-renewable resources...ingredients like milk, eggs, clay, tree resin, beeswax, bug excretions, etc. </li>
<li><b style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>no hazardous by-products</u>:</span> </b>the manufacturing process for conventional paints results in a variety of environmentally polluting byproducts; natural paints are derived from nature...trees, milk, soil, etc. </li>
<li><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><b><u>less energy to make</u></b>:</span> </span>the energy needed to make natural paints is YOU...mostly pouring & stirring </li>
<li><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="color: #b45f06;"><b><u>breathable finishes</u></b>:</span> </span>this means that the paints don't make a plastic-like finish that traps vapor on either side, which can cause problems with moisture build-up (which can mean mold or rotting) </li>
</ul>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwdMAV8SEch6tAQOLRPuINBS22SxhSE1-1KV5-dYHFW0daU4_Rmd1KGJd7XnhxBlgeexCMJZO8j_CAxOwBIb5fspEZv4BDAdSD0iSqFrga1QhHhOq075rEyUBDDB_5EknTF2TeYi3Fp93/s1600/MENF-egg+paint.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxwdMAV8SEch6tAQOLRPuINBS22SxhSE1-1KV5-dYHFW0daU4_Rmd1KGJd7XnhxBlgeexCMJZO8j_CAxOwBIb5fspEZv4BDAdSD0iSqFrga1QhHhOq075rEyUBDDB_5EknTF2TeYi3Fp93/s320/MENF-egg+paint.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">natural paints are so easy to make kids can learn it in 5 minutes!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">Challenges </span></b><br />
When you buy paint, you read the label to see where best to use the paint and you can color match the paint to anything. These are great conveniences and take the guessing out of paint. When you make your own natural paints, you need to understand which paint recipe is appropriate for your particular application. As for color, you have complete control! You can mix absolutely any color, but you may need to experiment a bit to get just the right shade. This means you need to understand your ingredients!<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhbmL4JdbDoZGTuhr6PDS32rSTMjFf_U27ccFG0OS6p52LBfThAbjjI7zaQsl0Sq-b8omHhVJzkqFS2_YiTmPzTVnvnupCl-an-aGVIA3oqoGgS7svgR84uXaH2dL6XsVlGgLyfqdF2tR/s1600/milk+paint-360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdhbmL4JdbDoZGTuhr6PDS32rSTMjFf_U27ccFG0OS6p52LBfThAbjjI7zaQsl0Sq-b8omHhVJzkqFS2_YiTmPzTVnvnupCl-an-aGVIA3oqoGgS7svgR84uXaH2dL6XsVlGgLyfqdF2tR/s320/milk+paint-360.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">natural paints can be pigmented to absolutely any color</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b><span style="font-size: large;">What's in Paint? </span></b><br />
Below are the basic component of any paint.<br />
<ol>
<li><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>PIGMENT</u>:</span> </b> the point of most paint is to put color on a surface, even if that color is white. Natural pigments are mostly mineral based, like iron oxides, or plant based, like onion skins. You have to make sure the type of pigment you are using will work with the binder you choose or you may end up with a different color than you intended. This is especially true if you have any lime putty in your paint. I order most of my pigments from <a href="http://www.earthpigments.com/">www.earthpigments.com</a> or <a href="http://www.bioshieldpaint.com/">www.bioshieldpaint.com</a>.</li>
<li><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>BINDER</u>:</span></b> the ingredient that transforms pigment into paint is the binder, because it "glues" the pigment onto the wall. If you just used pigment and water, for example, your paint would flake or dust off in no time because the water alone won't glue the pigment to your wall. So you need a binder to attach it. There are a multitude of natural binders in your kitchen, including milk and eggs! Other binders include natural oils, such as tung or linseed oil, clay, gum arabic (from tree resin), beeswax, lime putty, cellulose (from flour), and beer (which some may argue is a waste of beer!) For a complete collection of recipes, I recommend <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549">The Natural Paint Book</a>. And stay tuned, as I'll be posting paint recipes in weeks to follow.</li>
<li><b><span style="color: #b45f06;"><u>SOLVENT</u>:</span></b> this ingredient gets a bad name because many solvents used in conventional paints off-gas and are super toxic, but really all the solvent does is thin the consistency of your paint to something you can apply...the solvent can be water!</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoA_zLGq-5eaSB4shkiIMqlCp9B0spRJpboMWdPbZsRLQTFx2z6OBEt07uh5RsPmtnUHKvsIoQfXc-BugzuGIStZUUa5Vl3TGXX4h2vOF_tLohZVWFmRADj6Fqp3qbJc1xnsUsqftmBjH/s1600/BTR-alis+on+bench-360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSoA_zLGq-5eaSB4shkiIMqlCp9B0spRJpboMWdPbZsRLQTFx2z6OBEt07uh5RsPmtnUHKvsIoQfXc-BugzuGIStZUUa5Vl3TGXX4h2vOF_tLohZVWFmRADj6Fqp3qbJc1xnsUsqftmBjH/s320/BTR-alis+on+bench-360.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">painting with clay paint...made & on the wall in less than an hour!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Resources</b></span><br />
This is by far my favorite book on natural paint. The format resembles a cookbook...recipes on one side and a photo of what the paint looks like on the other. This book contains tons of information and inspiration.</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEig8bT5ri5oqTURiVNcwLZRPS5b8jAHH7VLoiEiNFQTRnA6GblldUoQZiBThwX-BbPuk7Qs07OHNXSeW435VF_6kQgJ0DySRi3FeTEAd0BQF_vH_9b6GWKkh8pB5QnNLhA8itTSDPKUJHC-/s1600/NaturalPaintBook.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0875969143/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank">click the cover above for more info or to purchase</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
Stay tuned for paint recipes over the next several weeks. I'm going to be posting recipes & how to's for milk paint, egg paint, and clay paint. (And will update here with links as those posts go live.)<br />
<br />
<b>Read our recipe & instruction for making home-made MILK PAINT:</b><br />
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/02/dont-cry-over-spilled-milkmake-paint.html">http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/02/dont-cry-over-spilled-milkmake-paint.html</a><br />
<b>Read our recipe & instruction for making home-made EGG PAINT:</b><br />
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/02/dont-be-left-with-egg-on-your-facemake.html">http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/02/dont-be-left-with-egg-on-your-facemake.html</a><br />
<b>Read our recipe & instruction for making home-made CLAY PAINT:</b><br />
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/03/make-natural-non-toxic-paint-from-clay.html">http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2013/03/make-natural-non-toxic-paint-from-clay.html</a></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-58434811487086923862012-08-20T21:59:00.005-04:002022-06-25T18:50:42.177-04:00Finish Clay Plaster Recipe & Wall Preparation<div align="justify">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjirROgUGjUomFLmKiT13T8Pb3DNn17CdF3v-FKC1t_KBPkr6DRcPOG0BKQAxZoMDEb3cB1vKFFFtvLHyXJlPWBxa74tK0oIJ7Y0zp7sy1VhW7rzKDSlxgisKHFs9WSkOyM9bJF4CgOQbbI/s1600/heart+truth+window.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjirROgUGjUomFLmKiT13T8Pb3DNn17CdF3v-FKC1t_KBPkr6DRcPOG0BKQAxZoMDEb3cB1vKFFFtvLHyXJlPWBxa74tK0oIJ7Y0zp7sy1VhW7rzKDSlxgisKHFs9WSkOyM9bJF4CgOQbbI/s320/heart+truth+window.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Plasters made with clay are beautiful, durable, and
made from inexpensive and non-toxic ingredients. Clay creates a
breathable finish material with
a natural capacity to regulate moisture and temperature in the
surrounding air.
Clay naturally absorbs excess moisture in the air, helping air to
feel
more comfortable in summer, while its high thermal mass creates
a battery heat (or cooling) storage that helps to maintain
constant air temperature. Materials can often be found on or local to
the building site, making
the ingredients dirt cheap...literally. Or you can use dry bagged clay from a pottery supplier. Clay naturally occurs in a variety of colors and clay plasters can be pigmented with mineral based pigments in every range of color. Techniques for mixing and
applying are
simple and the plaster is extremely forgiving, even for beginners
of any
age.</div>
<div align="justify">
<br /></div>
<div align="justify">
Below are instructions for wall preparation to apply clay plaster on drywall or on clay substrates, followed by my favorite finish clay plaster recipe. At the very end are my 3 favorite plaster books. Have fun playing in the mud!!</div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Drywall Preparation</b></span><br />
<i>sanded primer for drywall application of clay paints (from Keely Meagan’s article in The Last Straw: <a href="http://www.thelaststraw.org/bonus-articles/earthplaster.html">www.thelaststraw.org/bonus-articles/earthplaster.html</a>)</i><br />
<br />
<ul style="color: #b45f06;">
<li><b>10 parts wheat paste </b></li>
<li><b>1 part coarse sand </b></li>
<li><b>1 part clay</b></li>
</ul>
Mix together & paint on wall. Allow to dry completely. Do not re-wet wall surface prior to plaster application.<br />
Covers approx. 40 SF<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>W</b><b>heat Paste </b></span><br />
<i></i>Bring <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 quart water</span></b> to boil in a non-aluminum pot. Meanwhile, mix <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 cup flour</span></b> with <b><span style="color: #b45f06;">1 cup cold water</span></b>
until smooth and lump free. (If you can’t get it lump free, run
through a strainer.) When water in pot is boiling, slowly add in
flour/water mixture, stirring constantly. Bring back to almost a boil,
stirring constantly, until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and allow
to cool completely. Use wheat paste within a day or two; it goes
rancid after a few days (faster in warm weather), and becomes smelly and
usable.<br />
Makes approx. 5 cups of wheat paste.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Clay-Over-Clay Preparation </b></span><br />
Dampen
clay substrates prior to application of clay paints or plasters. I
recommend dampening clay substrates the evening prior to application,
again in the morning before you begin to mix your material, and then
again about 20 minutes prior to application. Thick cob walls generally
require more dampening than clay plaster surfaces. Be sure to allow
your water to completely absorb or you will create a water slick that
prevents plaster from adhering to your substrate. Continue to dampen
the wall as you work.<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Kaolin Clay Plaster </b></span><br />
<i>beautiful white or off-white, creamy plaster that can be pigmented as desired </i><br />
<ul style="color: #b45f06;">
<li><b>1 gallon water </b></li>
<li><b>1 (5)-gallon bucket kaolin clay putty* </b></li>
<li><b>2-½ (5)-gallon buckets fine sand** </b></li>
<li><b>1 cup wheat paste per 5-gallon bucket of material (clay and sand) </b></li>
<li><b>Pigment, mica, or chopped straw, as desired </b></li>
</ul>
*to make clay putty, soak dry, bagged kaolin clay powder in clean water
for a minimum of 24 hours until it is the consistency of sour cream;
store in a cool, dry place; kaolin clays are white to off-white, but you can substitute any bagged clay in this recipe in your color of choice<br />
<br />
**typical is mason’s sand though finer grit sand may be used; the
finer the sand, the smoother the wall surface without buffing with a
finish trowel <br />
<ol>
<li>Mix all ingredients together thoroughly. You can use a cement mixer
or you can mix materials on a tarp (flipping often & mixing with
your feet). Final consistency should resemble creamy mousse. More water
may be added to achieve desired consistency. </li>
<li>If adding pigment, save some pigmented plaster with no wheat paste
for later patches or repairs. Add wheat paste after pigment. </li>
<li>Apply plaster to desired texture, typically using trowels, onto substrate that has been prepared as above. </li>
<li>When leather hard (slightly firm), smooth the surface by buffing
with a damp tile sponge, rinsing the sponge frequently. Or, for a super smooth
finish, run a final sweep across the dampened surface with a very flexible trowel. Mist clay surface slightly as desired as you buff with
the flexible trowel. </li>
</ol>
Covers approx. 100 SF <br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Resources</b></span><br />
<br />
If you are plastering over strawbales, read our other plastering posts:<br />
<div>
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/07/clay-plastering-strawbales-first-coat.html">"Clay Plastering Strawbales - FIRST COAT"</a><br />
<div>
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/08/clay-plastering-strawbales-second-coat.html">"Clay Plastering Strawbales - SECOND COAT"</a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
These are the most useful books I've found for information on making & applying clay plasters.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1900322161/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2smMPBhJjZdflzAdMNucA3O1hNdTdBp1qS9R5AbuHClVkyd5Kj2wlPgzZC2QXRmtLZ4pliS3Y1JqW37gGqGnfUdKUXeDP3M2h8G4eaiM_qMezfOie8xbX4ImAwaH5SRkNC2yRpPyXCqrB/s1600/UsingNaturalFinishes.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0984222901/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xPnmjBpfL_ZW6Jh-KO9-ZdPRL7nxM_UBPlJ-dNtKE0Gu6wgEUV-IyJp2Gf0R9Q_ZtxY-PbTg7iD-2CLX1erbZLNnzNm9hJQc1eiw9NadNCJSXRKSphkjeMjUyly1nqV_9GSjxcPYGo7J/s1600/ClayCulture.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0865714495/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFPayX2gbNt1NhIM0Rw9Ct6NoN67PdmhIMLJUL5iX_SqQ1iUcnKys0ttKYbpXgwAwGjkihql2UguVy6yzV4xcAK-vYuVdJW0kNZtsfewfPNkBoZEmlir-mr7y68XXEkOBLPgFPwGq3dml/s1600/TheNaturalPlasterBook.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
click the book covers above for more info or to purchase</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
Using Natural Finishes: Lime- & Earth-Based Plasters, Renders
& Paints, A Step-by-Step Guide by Adam Weismann and Katy Bryce,
Green Books Ltd, 2008</div>
<br />
Clay Culture: Plasters, Paints and Preservation by Carole Crews, Gourmet Adobe Press, 2010 <br />
<br />
The Natural Plaster Book: Earth, Lime
and Gypsum Plasters for Natural Homes by Cedar Rose Guelberth and Dan
Chiras, New Society Publishers, 2003. <span style="font-family: Georgia; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US;"><br clear="all" style="mso-column-break-before: always; mso-special-character: line-break;" />
</span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com86tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-78486239762674271432012-06-11T11:50:00.000-04:002012-06-11T11:51:10.290-04:00Cob Oven Video - Parts Three & Four<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Here are our final two videos explaining how to build a cob oven.</b><br />
For more information on cob ovens, I recommend <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-Earth-Oven/dp/096798467X/?tag=widgetsamazon-20">Kiko Denzer's book "Build Your Own Earth Oven"</a>...it's a complete "how to" including how-to
sketches, list of tools, inspiring photos, and much more.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wa84y0Le4QI?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe> </div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br />
Part Three shows how to carve the door, remove the sand, fire up the
oven, and bake a pizza! This oven is 36" interior diameter, so the
height of the interior is 75% of that, or 27" tall. The thermal mass
layer is 4" thick, plus a 6" thick insulating layer over that, so the
whole oven is 10" bigger than the fire cavity all the way around.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/AIUULb014go?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Part Four shows how to apply a lime plaster to your cob oven. Lime
plaster is made with 3 parts mason's sand and one part lime putty. I
use Mississippi vertical hydrate lime, purchased as a powder, and I let
it soak in water for a minimum of 6 weeks, until it is the consistency
of sour cream. The longer it sits in water, the creamier and nicer to
work with it becomes. LIME IS CAUSTIC! So be sure to wear protective
clothing and gloves. Never touch it directly! My lime plaster bible is
the book <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Building-Lime-A-Practical-Introduction/dp/1853395471/?tag=widgetsamazon-20">"Building with Lime" by Stafford Holmes and Michael Wingate</a>. </div><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-63027054094529791722012-01-02T10:07:00.001-05:002012-01-02T10:09:35.760-05:00Cob Oven Video - Parts One & Two<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div id="eow-description" style="text-align: center;">
<b><span id="goog_2033633382"></span><span id="goog_2033633383"></span>Here are our first two videos explaining how to build a cob oven.</b><br />
For more information on cob ovens, I recommend <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own-Earth-Oven/dp/096798467X/?tag=widgetsamazon-20">Kiko Denzer's book "Build Your Own Earth Oven"</a>...it's a complete "how to" including how-to
sketches, list of tools, inspiring photos, and much more.</div>
<br />
<div id="eow-description" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span id="goog_2033633382"></span><span id="goog_2033633383"></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/SFuGzhPxofE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div id="eow-description">
<span id="goog_2033633382"></span><span id="goog_2033633383"></span>Part One shows how to prepare the base
and dome mold for building a cob oven. This oven is 36" interior
diameter, so the height of the interior is 75% of that, or 27" tall.
The thermal mass layer is 4" thick, plus a 6" thick insulating layer
over that, so the whole oven is 10" bigger than the fire cavity all the
way around. The base is made with stones gathered from the site and
held together with a clay + sand (cob) mortar. Also note, the primary
reason to use firebrick is that they do not crack under the heat of a
fire.</div>
<br />
<div id="watch-description-text" style="text-align: center;">
<div id="eow-description">
<br /></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<span id="goog_2033633382"></span><span id="goog_2033633383"></span>Part Two shows how to mix & install
the cob thermal mass layer (no straw) and the insulating layer (lots of
straw). Note that our soil was about 50% clay and 50% sand content. We want about 25% total clay, so we added an additional 2 parts sand for each 2 parts soil. Since the soil is already 50-50 sand-to-clay, the total is 1 part clay to 3 parts sand, or 25%. The thermal mass layer has no straw. This is the layer that gets hot and holds the heat from your fire. The second layer has tons of straw...basically as much as you can mix in. Straw is a good insulator, so the second layer helps hold in your heat.</div>
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</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-65876516215298170852011-09-14T17:18:00.002-04:002011-09-14T18:21:51.165-04:00Low-Cost, High Performing Living Roofs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxCIe4SRzFPjRSDNipzWoCvZtK10bwx7mof2BO11Vm1Cz0edDYk1OwITEpWQAkgzUMVvIhWTEqQo9i7PDEXIzT0wQNARG2wsgQmA3d6XkUruLS7s0J1RyQeHV_T6ctpYX-Orybea5AWHE/s1600/LR-sedums-sm.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoxCIe4SRzFPjRSDNipzWoCvZtK10bwx7mof2BO11Vm1Cz0edDYk1OwITEpWQAkgzUMVvIhWTEqQo9i7PDEXIzT0wQNARG2wsgQmA3d6XkUruLS7s0J1RyQeHV_T6ctpYX-Orybea5AWHE/s1600/LR-sedums-sm.JPG" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW8P1ywuaQWTKsHsCEdwfl5r5dpkFBly64CWB0c9J2jYBywkAG-JGC5Iz3UB46MhFCTH77S3J2JftRh_SW-nOAmeoKKNn_dH5UEiG7LlgIi-Wk_5PyhTs3mEOCYmkTrZI2WGEsP2Wkxdp/s1600/LR-pinkflower-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWW8P1ywuaQWTKsHsCEdwfl5r5dpkFBly64CWB0c9J2jYBywkAG-JGC5Iz3UB46MhFCTH77S3J2JftRh_SW-nOAmeoKKNn_dH5UEiG7LlgIi-Wk_5PyhTs3mEOCYmkTrZI2WGEsP2Wkxdp/s1600/LR-pinkflower-sm.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmy8iM0Y26r86QCPZt9_jirs5G8Ck61jwDtgXMsAvHCgPPO2mKuPkH-e-YQ9DWmGUuwxIb1A0paCLMD2JP45DhLB6WZurP-KqJa4JjADWeGTqp3ZHGhPGDLLS_2zt6oGp55oJDzgTRtHy-/s1600/LR-yellowflowers-sm.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmy8iM0Y26r86QCPZt9_jirs5G8Ck61jwDtgXMsAvHCgPPO2mKuPkH-e-YQ9DWmGUuwxIb1A0paCLMD2JP45DhLB6WZurP-KqJa4JjADWeGTqp3ZHGhPGDLLS_2zt6oGp55oJDzgTRtHy-/s1600/LR-yellowflowers-sm.jpg" /></a></div><br />
A living roof, or green roof, describes a system that allows plants to thrive on the surface of rooftop without access to groundwater. The idea is to create a self-sufficient ecosystem that doesn't need you to water once the plants are fully established. This type of roof does provide energy-efficiency benefits in the summer, because the plants provide a net cooling effect. Even one inch of planted soil lowers overall average roof temperatures and reduces day-to-night temperature swings on roof surface. A green roof does NOT provide insulation to speak of, so <i><b>you still need to insulate your roof</b></i>, just like you normally would. Additionally, plants absorb and filter rainwater, reducing the negative impacts of excess storm runoff in watersheds, which is especially beneficial in areas with high percentage of impervious surfaces, such as cities and suburbs. (Yes, I did write suburbs! A mowed lawn only allows an average of 40% of the rain that falls on it to absorb into the groundwater table!)<br />
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The most important detail with a living roof is to select plants that will thrive in your climate and with the amount of sunlight striking your roof. <i>(See below for a living roof plant resource.)</i> First and foremost, your plants need to be able to survive without access to groundwater and rely just on your local rainfall. If you get tons of annual rainfall, you will want to be sure you select plants that can handle "wet feet", and be sure your roof drains well. If your roof is in full sun, you will need to select plants that will not wither under the heat of relentless summer sunshine. Etc.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYkLFRr-r53dJpTr0Azd7u8tqyZc4BRRzeLzznvJW4wEm46FOwqsI2H1Rvpm2TfUftBjhVx4IxgM3aU2Kmn75fm45VEl9NRZFG72e9MBQKcRxKZR-aoEUrUlDELqauQg5LYmVwKcq6Url/s1600/zinnes-shed.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidYkLFRr-r53dJpTr0Azd7u8tqyZc4BRRzeLzznvJW4wEm46FOwqsI2H1Rvpm2TfUftBjhVx4IxgM3aU2Kmn75fm45VEl9NRZFG72e9MBQKcRxKZR-aoEUrUlDELqauQg5LYmVwKcq6Url/s1600/zinnes-shed.JPG" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">full shade allows greater variety of plants</td></tr>
</tbody></table><span style="font-size: small;">Most planted roofs are installed on reasonably flat surfaces. But this is by no means a requirements. Steeper roofs (above about a 30-degree slope) do require additional erosion control, especially while the plants establish their root systems. Most commonly, I use a wooden trellis type grid that rests directly on the drainage layer (not fastened to the roof). Then plant in between the grid of the trellis. As the plants establish their root system, the wood biodegrades, providing additional nutrients for the plants. By the time the wood has composted, your plant roots become your erosion control.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">plants thrive on shallow or steep slopes, even curves!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Here are the layers I have used with great success on numerous small scale roofs:</b></span><br />
<ol><li><b><u>sheathing</u> </b>(such as plywood) - typical roof sheathing is 1/2", but my engineer likes to bump it up to 5/8" to prevent any sagging from the weight of the soil. The sheathing is part of your structure, so I make sure an engineer approves the roof framing as well as the sheathing.</li>
<li><u><b>waterproofing membrane</b></u> - the lowest cost option I've found for this that has high effectiveness is 60 mil EPDM (rubber pond liner). I also recommend reading <span class="ws12" style="font-family: Book Antiqua;"><i>"Stoneview: How to Build an Eco-Friendly Little Guesthouse"</i></span><span class="ws12" style="font-family: Book Antiqua;"> (New Society Publishers) </span>by Rob Roy for additional suggestions for waterproofing membranes<span class="ws12" style="font-family: Book Antiqua;">.</span></li>
<li><u><b>drainage/filter layer</b></u> - I don't skimp on this because it keeps your soil medium up on your roof, even with heavy rainfall. My favorite drainage layer with integral filter fabric is: Enkadrain 3615 (by <a href="http://www.colbond-usa.com/">www.colbond-usa.com</a>) because it is easy to cut & easy to install, especially on curvaceous roofs.</li>
<li><u><b>growing medium</b></u> (soil) - I have used everything from compost to an engineer mix of expanded shale & organic soil; they all seem to work well. The only advice here is to be sure if you are using compost, that it is sterile, ie, that there are no active seeds (or you will be up there weeding like crazy) <u>and</u> if you use a mix with high inorganic content (like expanded shale) be sure it's mixed with at least also 60% organic soil (like sterile compost)</li>
<li><b><u>plants</u> </b>- I use ONLY sedums and other rock garden plants. These are plants that don't rely on ground water, but instead have ways of storing rainwater (their leaves act like a cistern) or can pull humidity from the air for moisture. Be sure to select plants that will thrive on your roof and in your climate, ie, whether your roof is in full sun or full shade and how much rainfall you get in a year. For recommendations on plants, see <a href="http://www.greenroofplants.com/">www.greenroofplants.com</a> </li>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg942MkOBG8Am8H2hBaMyiQVaVkgAa81i66lfJUq58c1xl4-B5fbTVuAvHpz7Dig-kJsjAtxJTQecZNTxyoDdor7TTB_1vXLVQevE7n2RZSpplgs84q1s2m-pVqog1cpqjclMQNC1zquH49/s1600/LR-detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg942MkOBG8Am8H2hBaMyiQVaVkgAa81i66lfJUq58c1xl4-B5fbTVuAvHpz7Dig-kJsjAtxJTQecZNTxyoDdor7TTB_1vXLVQevE7n2RZSpplgs84q1s2m-pVqog1cpqjclMQNC1zquH49/s320/LR-detail.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">typical living roof detail</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;">For additional information, including books and other resources, see my full article on Living Roofs at <a href="http://www.buildnaturally.com/EDucate/Articles/LivingRoof.htm">www.buildnaturally.com/EDucate/Articles/LivingRoof.htm</a></div><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-80214053198586622152011-08-01T15:12:00.000-04:002014-02-11T20:49:44.355-05:00Clay Plastering Strawbales - SECOND COATI would like to address issues & tips for the 2nd coat of clay plaster on strawbale walls today. Note, I am assuming you are using clay plaster for all 3 layers of a 3-coat application. For tips on applying the 1st coat of clay plaster, see my previous post "<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/07/clay-plastering-strawbales-first-coat.html">Clay Plastering Strawbales - FIRST COAT</a>". For information on finish plastering, see "<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2012/08/finish-clay-plaster-recipe-wall.html">Finish Clay Plaster & Wall Preparation</a>".<br />
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<b>GOAL for 2nd coat of plaster</b><br />
<i>The goal for the 2nd coat of plaster is to sculpt the walls into the desired shape.</i> The first coat created your amazing bond to the strawbales. And your finish coat will create the texture you desire. This second coat is where you create the shape you want your walls to have. Your shaping/sculpting plaster is bonding directly to the first coat of clay plaster you applied, so the bond of that first coat is essential. Since your first coat usually is lumpy & bumpy, you have excellent surface area to physically key your second coat of plaster to the first coat.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufNR57KfI97M4TRot3a4iv1CKHlufml8j0T4UUDvDCUQ4kOl1B6RqdFpwEa5pQRDJYmM32HeDjj0c25kLkPRMTzWsyeVlo4ARFbw-8IkYXpIUsouS-EOjeki8zdpY_6X7Q75NekE7-poj/s1600/transformation-flip.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhufNR57KfI97M4TRot3a4iv1CKHlufml8j0T4UUDvDCUQ4kOl1B6RqdFpwEa5pQRDJYmM32HeDjj0c25kLkPRMTzWsyeVlo4ARFbw-8IkYXpIUsouS-EOjeki8zdpY_6X7Q75NekE7-poj/s320/transformation-flip.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">transformation from 1st coat (left) to 2nd coat (right)</td></tr>
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<b> </b>In this coat of plaster, I care very much what it looks like...not how it feels, but how the shape looks. I try to minimize or avoid cracks, I work sculpted areas a lot so they look exactly how I want them to, and I spend as much time as needed to shape the wall into something that is beautiful to me. Then I'm well-prepared for a nice, even coat of finish plaster, where I can work on texture.<br />
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<b>WALL PREPARATION for 2nd coat of plaster</b><br />
<b><u><i>1. Work any loose spots</i></u></b><i> </i>- I go around the dry first coat of plaster and make sure there are no loose spots. There will usually be a wide, tell-tale crack if you have a loose spot at a strawbale seam, where the first plaster was not worked in well. I also check corners, around windows, and the tops of walls, to be sure all the walls feel nice and dense and tight.<br />
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<b><u><i>2. Make test plaster mixes</i></u> </b>- I make several test plasters and apply them directly onto the first layer of clay plaster. What I'm experimenting with in my tests are the proportions of ingredients. Since I use almost exclusively clay soils to make plasters, it means I'm using different clay each time, and each clay has different properties. So I make test areas at least 24" x 24" in area with varying proportions of clay and sand, and I write my proportions directly into the plaster surface. When the test areas dry, I look for the one that cracks the least, but that I can press into firmly with my thumb and it is not crumbly or dust, but nice and firm.<i></i><br />
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<b><u><i>3. Wet the walls down</i></u></b> - I can't stress this one enough, and as I mentioned in the post on 1st coats of plaster, this is the most common error I see...applying plasters over dry substrates! I hose down the 1st coat of clay plaster the evening before I plan to plaster, again in the morning, again about 30 minutes before plastering, and then continually as the wall dries out over the course of working. If the 1st coat of plaster is dry, the clay sucks moisture out of the 2nd coat of plaster, and causes the bond between new clay to old clay to pop apart. When deconstructing plaster coats that have been applied to each other without dampening the substrate first, the two coats of plaster are quite distinct, and you can easily pry them apart in separate layers, like sheets of slate. Similarly to 1st coats of plaster, I allow time for water to saturate the clay substrate, because a water slick on the surface will cause new plaster to slide right off the wall.<br />
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<b>In order to maximize control over the shape of the walls as well as the quality of the plaster, I do the following:</b><br />
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<b>SIFTING. </b>I use mostly clay soils to make plasters and there are often stones and large clumps in the mix. So I sift clayey-soils through a 1/2" or 1/4" screen to break up the soil into smaller pieces. Basically you want a screen that is slightly smaller than the thickness of plaster you intend to apply (otherwise stones will drag with your trowel against the hard 1st coat of clay).<br />
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<b>PROPORTIONS. </b>I use sand & straw, and sometimes manure, to control cracking in this second coat of plaster. The reason is because clay expands in volume when wet, which means it shrinks when it dries. Shrinking clay can translate to cracks in your plaster. Sand, on the other hand, does not absorb water and so does not increase in volume when wet nor decrease volume when it dries. So having a high percentage of sand in your mixture helps to control shrinkage of the plaster, and thus cracks. However, the clay is your binder, it holds everything together and onto the wall, so you need to be sure that your plaster has enough clay to stay sticky, otherwise your will end up with a dusty mess. The exact proportions of sand-to-clay depend on the properties of your clay, but roughly speaking, I usually end up with between 15% and 30% total clay content, the remainder being sand. <i>(Note that this includes any sand in your soil, if you are using clayey soil for your plaster.)</i> The straw component helps to bridge gaps where cracks are likely to occur. I add a fair bit of chopped straw (3" or less in length) to my second coat of plaster to provide ample structural integrity and I add additional straw when sculpting the clay or where I'm trying to fill in deep holes. Finally, I use manure whenever it is available, and it is probably my favorite additive for plasters and cob. The manure is both sticky (like the clay) and fibrous (like the straw), so you augment two properties of the plaster mixture with a single ingredient. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnH62p2MV3LIp75ienSOunxWu3SeXtY8QoZoqPezrGZ6ZqEF-PP4yu5mIvWHaLp2pyZ8XM3DtYhhEFJFlxQYCw6a6u3IFDVQIReLwG-bmcv-YnuDct4QH5uSK8Pf7QeHft5q1jFXiI5q2h/s1600/applying+2nd+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnH62p2MV3LIp75ienSOunxWu3SeXtY8QoZoqPezrGZ6ZqEF-PP4yu5mIvWHaLp2pyZ8XM3DtYhhEFJFlxQYCw6a6u3IFDVQIReLwG-bmcv-YnuDct4QH5uSK8Pf7QeHft5q1jFXiI5q2h/s320/applying+2nd+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">applying the 2nd coat of clay plaste</td></tr>
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<b>APPLICATION. </b>In order to control shaping the walls I use a fairly long (16" to 18") rigid trowel to apply this layer of plaster. Because the trowel is rigid, I can push the plaster around easily and because the trowel is long, I can create a gently undulating, reasonably flat wall surface. I find a short trowel does not let me see low spots in my wall surface as well, and I find a flexible trowel just follow the shape of that lumpy, bumpy first coat, so I save shorter, flexible trowels for finish plastering. If you have a lot of dips in your wall that you want to fill, you will want to add lots of straw to your plaster so it has more structural integrity.<b> </b>I also limit the thickness that I apply on any one day, and instead, fill deep spots in multiple passes. Even waiting one day before adding more plaster will allow the first batch of fill to dry enough, and bond to the first coat below, to support more weight of a second layer. Again, remember that clay is a liquid until it dries, and can only support a limited weight of additional plaster before it tries to flow off the wall. If your plaster is slumping or falling off the wall, it is probably too thick (or your clay surface below is not adequately damp).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisN2KFQzfa9FAXEIBN6mQIHG1GeOAi9mK3OdA9l_9P8cU5xKwwODj4urAZEX1eU1U3ubgTsJkldeiLXGfsaYwDac8z6TAlHxHwdxutQN3ixrZl970pchnnSEI6RXdeZukkB7Td7sJ2XHVE/s1600/niches.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisN2KFQzfa9FAXEIBN6mQIHG1GeOAi9mK3OdA9l_9P8cU5xKwwODj4urAZEX1eU1U3ubgTsJkldeiLXGfsaYwDac8z6TAlHxHwdxutQN3ixrZl970pchnnSEI6RXdeZukkB7Td7sJ2XHVE/s320/niches.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">walls become sensuously shaped with sculpted elements</td></tr>
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<b>SCULPTING. </b>This 2nd coat of clay is also the layer that I sculpt into...including niches, wall reliefs, and any clay frames around truth windows. For thick reliefs, I add a lot of chopped straw, making almost a cob-like mixture, I make sure my surface is saturated with water, and I build up slowly...perhaps 1" in thickness at a time. If I'm feeling impatient, I use burlap embedded into the surface of the sculpting clay, and I use the burlap to bridge the thick new clay onto the existing wall surface. <i>(more on burlap below)</i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9ULdwjWAPw6KBPMr2am3Iqx1kcPwI-fPD_20LiLorZCcLpIDL8aBASX8bE_tnNnJ1lC98UGFUD_W1RJavTgRSZNbouJOkFSXwlhNlPQotm0kPBt7jtwh_NxECpjObcRkkCdUS5uVFZ9w/s1600/burlap+sill+1.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN9ULdwjWAPw6KBPMr2am3Iqx1kcPwI-fPD_20LiLorZCcLpIDL8aBASX8bE_tnNnJ1lC98UGFUD_W1RJavTgRSZNbouJOkFSXwlhNlPQotm0kPBt7jtwh_NxECpjObcRkkCdUS5uVFZ9w/s320/burlap+sill+1.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">using burlap at window sills to prevent cracking</td></tr>
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<b>BURLAP. </b>I use burlap mostly as a preventative measure in places where cracks are most likely to develop, or where the additional strength of surface fiber will be a benefit. I also use burlap to apply clay plaster to surfaces that otherwise are too slick for plaster to adhere to, such as wood. So at windows, I use burlap embedded into the surface of the 2nd coat of plaster to prevent horizontal cracking along the bottom edge of the window sill, as well as at the joints between the jambs and the sill (and the jambs and the window head). The burlap provides exceptional surface tension, and holds the clay together as it dries, so that it cannot crack in those vulnerable locations. The important trick is that the burlap MUST be fully embedded into the surface of the clay, otherwise it is not bonded and you actually create a loose spot instead of a strong surface.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7CDdJmzAU50LxZ2eput4Q8hAPA3hOJZFmTRLeBecccOco8iW4p6nGGPFGaihUQAieJYcA6T-Pj2xmdat_WF0Y48R29ugeXx_ZrJOItWZ68Y2i1W2zLB9a5KwDj1Qb7pxDEHZss9WxFaS/s1600/burlap+sill+2.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu7CDdJmzAU50LxZ2eput4Q8hAPA3hOJZFmTRLeBecccOco8iW4p6nGGPFGaihUQAieJYcA6T-Pj2xmdat_WF0Y48R29ugeXx_ZrJOItWZ68Y2i1W2zLB9a5KwDj1Qb7pxDEHZss9WxFaS/s320/burlap+sill+2.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">burlap must embed completely into the clay</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I also use burlap where plaster meets wood, and I don't want the plaster to shrink away from the wood, wherever I worry about wide cracks translating into my finish coat, and wherever I want to plaster over a slick surface, like a wood post, any rigid foam, or any roofing felt. I had one workshop participant declare "burlap is like magic!" And I pretty much agree!!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaF054rm7qskBqGvLE5sPF2jfAdmqFMzsNL9aAZoIKd12QcCimdxvzDWseS8ab4L7BszO_Qp1p0vbLqu_hcfnn1FGHQGWgnGgUG1cpJoAIKHptnLszaTzLABf0qKLy-Tflm6NikwVmKajM/s1600/2nd+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaF054rm7qskBqGvLE5sPF2jfAdmqFMzsNL9aAZoIKd12QcCimdxvzDWseS8ab4L7BszO_Qp1p0vbLqu_hcfnn1FGHQGWgnGgUG1cpJoAIKHptnLszaTzLABf0qKLy-Tflm6NikwVmKajM/s320/2nd+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">leave 1/4" reveal at electrical boxes for finish plaster</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>ELECTRICAL.</b> Finally a quick note about electrical boxes...I work the placement of all electrical boxes while installing this 2nd sculpting layer of plaster. I straighten boxes. I pull them out if they are recessed too far. I push them in if they are bulging way past the plane of my wall. My goal is a level box that sticks out with an even 1/8" to 1/4" reveal from the plane of my 2nd coat of plaster. Then I can run my finish coat of plaster right up flush with the electrical box, and the cover plates will fit on squarely and tight to the wall surface. It's also not a bad idea to put a bit of tape over the screw holes to keep mud out.<b></b><br />
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I'd love to hear other people's experiences and tips! So please feel free to add comments below.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Resources</b></span><br />
<br />
If you are plastering over strawbales, read our other clay plaster posts:<br />
<div>
</div>
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/07/clay-plastering-strawbales-first-coat.html">"Clay Plastering Strawbales - FIRST COAT"</a><br />
<div>
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2012/08/finish-clay-plaster-recipe-wall.html">"Finish Clay Plaster Recipe & Wall Preparation"</a><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
These are the most useful books I've found for information on making & applying clay plasters.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1900322161/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2smMPBhJjZdflzAdMNucA3O1hNdTdBp1qS9R5AbuHClVkyd5Kj2wlPgzZC2QXRmtLZ4pliS3Y1JqW37gGqGnfUdKUXeDP3M2h8G4eaiM_qMezfOie8xbX4ImAwaH5SRkNC2yRpPyXCqrB/s1600/UsingNaturalFinishes.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0984222901/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xPnmjBpfL_ZW6Jh-KO9-ZdPRL7nxM_UBPlJ-dNtKE0Gu6wgEUV-IyJp2Gf0R9Q_ZtxY-PbTg7iD-2CLX1erbZLNnzNm9hJQc1eiw9NadNCJSXRKSphkjeMjUyly1nqV_9GSjxcPYGo7J/s1600/ClayCulture.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0865714495/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFPayX2gbNt1NhIM0Rw9Ct6NoN67PdmhIMLJUL5iX_SqQ1iUcnKys0ttKYbpXgwAwGjkihql2UguVy6yzV4xcAK-vYuVdJW0kNZtsfewfPNkBoZEmlir-mr7y68XXEkOBLPgFPwGq3dml/s1600/TheNaturalPlasterBook.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
click the book covers above for more info or to purchase</div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div>
Using Natural Finishes: Lime- & Earth-Based Plasters, Renders & Paints, A Step-by-Step Guide by Adam Weismann and Katy Bryce, Green Books Ltd, 2008</div>
<br />
Clay Culture: Plasters, Paints and Preservation by Carole Crews, Gourmet Adobe Press, 2010<br />
<br />
The Natural Plaster Book: Earth, Lime and Gypsum Plasters for Natural Homes by Cedar Rose Guelberth and Dan Chiras, New Society Publishers, 2003. </div>
</div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-56944923803935283652011-07-26T22:14:00.002-04:002014-02-11T20:49:49.366-05:00Clay Plastering Strawbales - FIRST COATI would like to share a few tips I have learned through trial & error over many years for plastering with clay on strawbale walls. In this post, I address issues and tips for the 1st coat of clay plaster applied directly to strawbale walls. I address 2nd coats of clay plaster in my post "<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/08/clay-plastering-strawbales-second-coat.html">Clay Plastering Strawbales - SECOND COAT</a>". For information on finish plastering, see "<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2012/08/finish-clay-plaster-recipe-wall.html">Finish Clay Plaster & Wall Preparation</a>".<br />
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<b>Goal for 1st coat of plaster</b><br />
<i>The primary goal for the 1st coat of plaster is to create your bond between clay and straw.</i> The goal for the second coat is to shape & sculpt the wall the way you would like it to look. And the finish coat is where you achieve your textures and sometimes color. The strawbales provide ample surface area for the clay to bond to, so I do not use any lathing or metal mesh or anything else that may actually get in the way of working the clay directly into the straw. Instead, I work a sticky clay plaster directly into the straw surface. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj9dyTOsVwgkdffYwqy21WixCQLv8yu6ChuQnS8fA5p_ayxC8QhFhgiIAe95rnY9Nj-p8HuT44IwyJhn2IHOLT-JjPa0hBFQXJL-Qz410bEXr9jdUA-uomEK7mg5t0J1qrals7nXDi_K1v/s1600/1st+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj9dyTOsVwgkdffYwqy21WixCQLv8yu6ChuQnS8fA5p_ayxC8QhFhgiIAe95rnY9Nj-p8HuT44IwyJhn2IHOLT-JjPa0hBFQXJL-Qz410bEXr9jdUA-uomEK7mg5t0J1qrals7nXDi_K1v/s320/1st+coat+of+clay+plaster.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1st coat of plaster is often lumpy & bumpy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Because the goal is coating the bales with a well-bonded layer of clay plaster, your first coat of plaster often follows the contours of the bales. This means the first coat is usually not that pretty...but rather comes out rather lumpy & bumpy. This is OK! You will shape the wall with the next coat of plaster. It is more important that you set up great contact with the strawbales so that the weight of all the plaster to come adheres well to the wall surface. You can shape the wall a little bit with this coat of plaster, especially in wedged areas, like the cracks between bales. But remember that the clay is a liquid until it dries...and its stickiness can only support a limited weight of plaster before is flows off the wall. If you find the plaster is slumping, this is usually a sign that your plaster is too liquid or that you have put on too thick a layer and the weight is pulling it off the wall. Once the plaster dries, it is bonded to whatever it is touching, so best to be patient, use a thinner layer, work it into the straw really well, and wait until it dries and is strong before adding more weight with subsequent plaster.<br />
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<b>WALL PREPARATION for 1st coat of plaster</b><br />
<b><u><i>1. Shape the straw</i></u></b> - this means trimming the walls as closely as you can to the shape you want. Spending more time shaping the straw pays back in magnitudes of time saved mixing and applying plaster. I also cut niches and identify any truth windows prior to plastering the first coat.<i></i><br />
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<b><u><i>2. Install electrical</i></u> </b>- I find that it is much more challenging to install electrical boxes after you have plastered the strawbales, so I get this out of the way before plastering. This also makes an electrical inspection more straightforward, if you need one, since you have not covered up any of the wiring with plaster.<br />
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<i><u><b>3. Make sure your walls are tight</b></u></i> - this means achieving a pre-compression of the strawbales before plastering. If you plaster before the bale wall is compressed downward, then the weight of the plaster can cause the strawbale wall to sag, leaving an open gap at the top of the wall. A gap can be filled in with insulation, but it's usually easier, less stressful, and cheaper to compress the bales first. There are many ways to achieve a tight wall, starting with purchasing tight strawbales to construct with. (The looser your bales are to start with, the more they will compress in place.) I make sure the top bale in any wall is installed very tightly up against some kind of framing above (floor, trusses, etc.). You can also use temporary straps to compress your walls. I'm sure there are many other solutions, but the general goal here is that the more compressed your straw is, the less your wall can settle from the weight of the plaster.<br />
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<i><u><b>4. Trim the straw</b></u></i> - the trimmed side of a bale, with all of the straw sticking out perpendicular to your plane of plaster, is an easier surface to plaster than the folded "fuzzy" size of a strawbale. So trimming your bales with a weed whacker, chain saw, hand saw, or whatever works for you, saves you time applying the plaster. Trimming also gives you the opportunity to sculpt the straw surface to the desired shape of the completed wall, which saves you time mixing and applying plaster or cob-like plaster to fill in voids and shape your walls with clay later.<br />
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<i><u><b>5. Fill in voids</b></u></i> - this also saves you time later! Unless you want your wall to remain lumpy & bumpy, I find it is the least amount of work to make sure that voids between the strawbales (and at seams with other surfaces) are stuffed tightly with straw or light clay straw before I begin plastering. Otherwise you are making additional plaster or cob-plaster to fill those voids later. I use handfuls of long pieces of straw, align them all like a rope, twist the rope, and then fold it in half. This lets you make relatively compact bunches of straw that you can then push between strawbales.<br />
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<b><u><i>6. Wet the walls down</i></u></b> - I think the most common error I see is applying plasters over dry substrates. I hose down the surface of the straw until the water drips off, and then allow the water to absorb for 20 to 30 minutes. The straw should feel pliable (not prickly), but all the water you spray on should be absorbed (not creating a water slick). If you have a water slick, the clay plaster will slide right off the straw and drive you crazy. If the straw is dry, it has a tendency to quickly suck water out of your plaster, which can cause the bonded clay to dry too quickly, which can subsequently reduce the adherence of the clay to the straw.<br />
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</b><br />
<b>TIPS for 1st coat of plaster</b><br />
In order to ensure a fabulous bond of the first coat of clay to the strawbale wall surface, I do the following:<br />
<ul>
<li><i><b><u>high clay content</u></b></i> - I used to try to control cracking in the first coat of clay by adding sand & sometimes straw, but this mixture is so difficult to apply because it is not as sticky. So I have shifted gears toward a very high clay content, shooting for between 1/3 and up to 1/2 total clay content (the remainder is sand from the soil or added concrete sand). I do not add straw to this layer, instead working the clay into the surface of the strawbale walls. The high clay content means you will have shrinkage, and therefore probably lots of cracking, in that base coat of plaster. But I find I am able to get a much stronger bond with the base coat if the mixture is nice and sticky, and you can easily address the cracking in the next layer of plaster.</li>
<li><i><u><b>sift soils through 1/2" screening</b></u></i> - if you are using site soils, I recommend to sift the clayey-soil through a 1/2" screen to break up the soil into granola-sized chunks. This makes the plaster easier to mix, and you don't end up with large chunks in your plaster that are difficult to impossible to work into the wall. You don't need finer screening unless you are troweling onto a hard substrate in thin layers.</li>
<li><i><u><b>apply 1st coat with your hands</b></u></i> - when I teach plaster workshops, I used to invite everyone use their hands or a trowel to apply 1st coats of clay plaster on strawbale, depending on their own comfort level with tools. And invariably, someone with troweling expertise, would apply a vast amount of plaster on a wall, and it would look great, and then...it would fall off. What was happening is that by using the trowel instead of their hands, they couldn't feel whether the clay was worked into the straw. So now I always apply the 1st coat of clay plaster directly onto the strawbales exclusively by hand (or with gloves), and not at all with a trowel. <i>This way you can feel...with your hands...the tactile bond between the clay and the straw.</i> You can feel if the straw is loose, like at seams between bales, and you work additional clay into those spots. You can feel if the clay is tight on the straw or if it shimmies like jello and is not bonded.</li>
<li><i><u><b>really work the plaster into the straw</b></u> </i>- this is probably the toughest to explain in words, but basically, you want to work the sticky plaster onto the surface of all the strawbales, but also into all of the nooks & crannies between strawbales as well as the joints where straw meets other materials. I use the palm of my hand as a trowel to apply plaster to the surface of the strawbales, and I use my fingers to kindof massage the clay into any loose spots between bales. Once you have some sticky plaster bonded to the straw, you can add lots of straw to your mix, and use that heavy-fiber plaster to fill in any big voids. The straw-plaster will stick nicely to the clayey-plaster that you already worked onto the bales.</li>
<li><i><u><b>don't worry how it looks</b></u></i> - the most important quality for the 1st coat of clay plaster is that the clay bonds well to the straw...it is not what the shape of the wall looks like. That is not to say you cannot shape the wall with this coat of plaster, but the primary goal is the bond to the straw, not the look of the wall.</li>
</ul>
I'd love to hear other people's experiences and tips! So please feel free to add comments below.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Resources</b></span><br />
<br />
If you are plastering over strawbales, read our other clay plaster posts:<br />
<div>
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2011/08/clay-plastering-strawbales-second-coat.html">"Clay Plastering Strawbales - SECOND COAT"</a><br />
<a href="http://buildnaturally.blogspot.com/2012/08/finish-clay-plaster-recipe-wall.html">"Finish Clay Plaster Recipe & Wall Preparation"</a><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
These are the most useful books I've found for information on making & applying clay plasters.<br />
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<br /></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/1900322161/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2smMPBhJjZdflzAdMNucA3O1hNdTdBp1qS9R5AbuHClVkyd5Kj2wlPgzZC2QXRmtLZ4pliS3Y1JqW37gGqGnfUdKUXeDP3M2h8G4eaiM_qMezfOie8xbX4ImAwaH5SRkNC2yRpPyXCqrB/s1600/UsingNaturalFinishes.jpg" /></a> <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0984222901/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7xPnmjBpfL_ZW6Jh-KO9-ZdPRL7nxM_UBPlJ-dNtKE0Gu6wgEUV-IyJp2Gf0R9Q_ZtxY-PbTg7iD-2CLX1erbZLNnzNm9hJQc1eiw9NadNCJSXRKSphkjeMjUyly1nqV_9GSjxcPYGo7J/s1600/ClayCulture.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/0865714495/ref=nosim?tag=downtoeartdes-20&linkCode=sb1&camp=212353&creative=380549" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbFPayX2gbNt1NhIM0Rw9Ct6NoN67PdmhIMLJUL5iX_SqQ1iUcnKys0ttKYbpXgwAwGjkihql2UguVy6yzV4xcAK-vYuVdJW0kNZtsfewfPNkBoZEmlir-mr7y68XXEkOBLPgFPwGq3dml/s1600/TheNaturalPlasterBook.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
click the book covers above for more info or to purchase</div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"> </span></div>
</div>
<div>
Using Natural Finishes: Lime- & Earth-Based Plasters, Renders & Paints, A Step-by-Step Guide by Adam Weismann and Katy Bryce, Green Books Ltd, 2008</div>
<br />
Clay Culture: Plasters, Paints and Preservation by Carole Crews, Gourmet Adobe Press, 2010<br />
<br />
The Natural Plaster Book: Earth, Lime and Gypsum Plasters for Natural Homes by Cedar Rose Guelberth and Dan Chiras, New Society Publishers, 2003. </div>
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<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com27tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-63784073086366528262011-06-15T22:24:00.001-04:002011-06-30T20:11:50.906-04:00Shake Test<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"></div><div style="text-align: center;">Video blog today, showing how to test your soil for clay </div><div style="text-align: center;">content, including worm test & shake test</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/hh211b8b5FE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-70853244733930813862011-06-14T07:37:00.003-04:002011-06-15T20:26:13.351-04:00Finding Good Strawbales<b>What is a "good" strawbale?</b> <br />
The most important characteristic of your strawbales is that they are dry! I do not use bales that are, or have been, wet for any construction project (including mixing in to cob or plasters). To check for moisture content, I start by visually inspecting the strawbales. First, I look at the conditions under which the bales are stored. I make sure they are not sitting directly on the ground (if they are, I let the farmer know that I do not want those bales). I make sure there is air-flow around the bales and that the roof isn't leaky. And I make sure the bales aren't leaning up against metal anywhere (metal will condense moisture and make the adjacent bales wet). Then I start inspecting the bales themselves. I look on the surface of the straw for any signs of mold. It usually is black in color. I smell the bale to make sure it smells like straw (not mold or any other contaminant). I pop open at least one bale to inspect the inside for mold too. I lift a few bales to check if they are unusually heavy. 2-string bales typically weigh about 45 to 55 pounds. If they are very heavy to pick up, it can mean they are super tight, but often means you are picking up lots of moisture absorbed by the straw. Finally I look to make sure the straw is not contaminated with unusual amounts of dirt or detritus. (This is usually not a deal-breaker, but clean bales are much more pleasant to use.)<br />
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Next step is to test the bales with a moisture meter. The farmer you are purchasing bales from may have a moisture meter (usually called a hay moisture meter, which is fine) that they can test your bales with. They are several hundred dollars to purchase, so I would try to borrow one unless you intend to use it for multiple projects. Insert the moisture meter probe into roughly the center of a bale and check the moisture content. I do this in several points of each bale and test at least 20 bales. They should read below 18% moisture content as an absolute maximum. Lower is better. (Note that the bales will continue to dry out unless moisture is introduced.)<br />
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In addition to being dry, the bales are much easier to work with at every stage of construction if they are nice & tight. To check for tightness, simply lift a few of the bales up by one string. It should be difficult to get your hand underneath the string, and the deflection of the string should be small enough that you don't feel like the bale could fall apart when lifted by the single string. (If the bale is loose, it feels like the string is just going to slip off the side.) The only other visual inspection is to check that the bales are reasonably rectangular. Sometime one string is tight and the other is loose, and you have bales that all curve to one side, which is kind of a pain in the butt when building.<br />
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<b>How can you locate strawbales near you?</b><br />
To find bales I recommend a two-prong approach:<br />
<br />
First, check www.hayexchange.com. Click on your state and also check any neighboring states. (You can even expand to further states if you are coming up short.) For each of the states you will see a list of suppliers and what they sell. Many of them may list hay, alfalfa, etc., as the website name implies. But there are also straw listings. You just need to make sure they are not listed as round bales or as mega bales (unless that's what you are looking for). Any grain variety is fine. I think barley is the nicest to work with, as it is bright & pliable (doesn't seem to break as much), but it really doesn't matter.<br />
<br />
Second, I recommend looking for a very local farmer, which can mean lower priced bales and often free delivery if they are very close. You can first see if there is a farmer's newsletter for your region. These might be found at an agricultural supply store or someplace similar. Here on the East Coast, lots of farmers simply put up a sign on the road that offers "straw for sale". If you are building somewhere similar, I recommend driving around and looking for those signs.<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-36794184598676972552011-04-05T14:19:00.000-04:002013-01-26T13:06:03.985-05:00How many bales do you need?<b>How many bales will you need?</b><br />
To calculate the number of bales, I assume that we are building something without doors or windows. That gives you enough extra bales for ample waste during installation, stuffing gaps, and straw for plastering as well. You will want to know roughly the size of your bales. Where I work on the East Coast, bales are usually 2-strings, usually about 14" high, 18" deep, and an average of 32" long (though length varies with any given stock of bales). Once I have this information, I calculate the quantity of bales as follows:<br />
<ol>
<li>Determine how many rows of bales high you will need for each wall height (not including any triangular gables). For example, if your bales are 14" high, and your walls are 8-feet tall, then you will need 7 rows of bales for each wall. (The number of rows will change if your walls are a different height, if your bales are a different dimension, or if you are laying the bales on edge.)</li>
<li>Calculate the total wall length for strawbale walls of that height.</li>
<li>Take your wall length in inches and divide by the average length of the bale. For example, if I have a 10-foot long wall, that's 120-inches. Assuming my bales are 32" long on average, that's 120 divided by 32, which equals 3.75 bales. I round this up to the nearest 1/2-bale, in this case up to 4 bales. This is the number of bales you need in each row.<br />
</li>
<li>Now multiply the number of bales in each row by the number of rows you need for your wall height. In our example, this is 7 rows of bales with 4 bales in each row, or a total or 28 bales.</li>
<li>For gables, the calculation is number of rows needed at the peak of the gable, times number of bales needed along the first long row, divided by 2.</li>
</ol>
I use a little spreadsheet and calculate each wall separately. Below is an example for a building with 8-foot tall walls, 2 peaked gable ends, and with exterior dimensions of 10-feet by 20-feet.<br />
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<b><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Location</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Bales per row</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-variant: small-caps;"># of rows high</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-variant: small-caps;">Total Bales</span></b></div>
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Level One East Wall</div>
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4</div>
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7</div>
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28</div>
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Level One West Wall</div>
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4</div>
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7</div>
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28</div>
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Level One South Wall <i>(subtract width of East & West walls)</i></div>
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6.5</div>
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7</div>
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45.5</div>
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Level One North Wall <i>(subtract width of </i><i>East & West</i><i> walls)</i></div>
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6.5</div>
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7</div>
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45.5</div>
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Level Two Gable Ends <i>(2 gables so rows x bales only)</i></div>
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4</div>
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4</div>
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16</div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 14pt; font-variant: small-caps;">Total Bale Count</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: 14pt; font-variant: small-caps;">163</span></b></div>
</td> </tr>
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<br />
For a 10-foot x 20-foot building, the long walls are 240" and the short walls are 120".<br />
<b>The short East & West walls</b> will be 120" divided by 32" (average bale length) = 3.75, so I round up to 4 bales per row.<br />
<b>The long South & North walls </b>will be 240" minus the width of the corners (since the corners overlap) so 240" - 2(18" bale width) = 240" - 36" = 204". Now divide by 32" (aver bale length) = 6.4, so I round up to 6.5 per row.<br />
<b>The height</b> will be 8-feet tall, or 96". Each bale is 14" tall, so 96" divided by 14" equals 6.8 bales tall, which we round up to 7 bales tall.<br />
<b>The gable</b> dimensions vary depending on your roof slope and design, but notice my example shows 2 gable ends, so I do not need to divide each by 2 as you would if it were a single gable.<br />
<br />
This will leave you with plenty of extra bales, assuming you have doors & windows in your building. The extra bales allow you to reject any loose or poorly tied bales and give you plenty of straw to use for clay plasters, any cob walls, or an earthen floor.<div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-536318271780948141.post-83517624838724791122011-03-28T16:29:00.001-04:002011-03-28T16:32:21.856-04:00Cool Strawbale Tool!During construction of one of my projects in Maryland, the builder came up with an <u>ingenious</u> method for installing nailers into the strawbales. These arrows were used for trim nailers, to attach electrical boxes, and anywhere we would need to nail something to the strawbale walls. The credit for this ingenuity goes to Jeff Geddes of <a href="http://www.paragoncustomhomesllc.com/">Paragon Custom Homes</a> in MD. You can see progress photos of this project at <a href="http://firstpig.blogspot.com/">Adrienne's Blog</a> (she's one of the homeowners-to-be). Below are step-by-step photos of how to make the arrows. To use them once you made them, simply hold the arrow facing toward the strawbale wall at the location where you need a nailer. Then push and then hammer the arrow into the straw. One warning...they are difficult to get back out, so check your location carefully!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibTaXoJP9jz4k-an5G5YMJ4nbA1_3XQP1oJRqnRNArqpbizEgegrZmwDYAa1C4lSlwLrie7VzXZHb4oJ_P2jcP2_TTcVXeEkcg1AZUsO0AOuwQH3NJ7hR-VimCyce906aULXSzg6lwjZ81/s1600/arrows-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibTaXoJP9jz4k-an5G5YMJ4nbA1_3XQP1oJRqnRNArqpbizEgegrZmwDYAa1C4lSlwLrie7VzXZHb4oJ_P2jcP2_TTcVXeEkcg1AZUsO0AOuwQH3NJ7hR-VimCyce906aULXSzg6lwjZ81/s320/arrows-1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">start with a 12"-long 1x4</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrUvwdHufEQvRdFzlfE7rTDFb9iQJTzYl3uX53DVeccpJ-BmOX3loyks4ni5s4mbO1uoL-RtMD06FBHqFjIqZ1ZLxlrqWrVzCN0SYtn50emgi6DmNHZE0LUCU2PAtih5bv0Ja6v7z03A5/s1600/arrows-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTrUvwdHufEQvRdFzlfE7rTDFb9iQJTzYl3uX53DVeccpJ-BmOX3loyks4ni5s4mbO1uoL-RtMD06FBHqFjIqZ1ZLxlrqWrVzCN0SYtn50emgi6DmNHZE0LUCU2PAtih5bv0Ja6v7z03A5/s320/arrows-2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cut an arrow head on one end</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidYps4b2sIDZ6PVr7EYxKplg7F8eOUBN8KdEgTOEl6eC7htUtrMJQitt4NurNc3399FIxjI8iJv4Igp78xnshAQW_F4glPfyDDQ9YqsIsk2WTba5LO3L8i1k8Fa9qktWa6GveLdWFelMN/s1600/arrows-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidYps4b2sIDZ6PVr7EYxKplg7F8eOUBN8KdEgTOEl6eC7htUtrMJQitt4NurNc3399FIxjI8iJv4Igp78xnshAQW_F4glPfyDDQ9YqsIsk2WTba5LO3L8i1k8Fa9qktWa6GveLdWFelMN/s320/arrows-3.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">kerf angled cuts into the sides as shown</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeZzgN9S8gOCMrDZM32hH_HijOl5BqAfd7AF4COj9YXd_h2_NdkmwjEmRI0q-4odXakKaa4wmW0ME-UAq_9elTos3R6wXk_B5cEhFn6Z_o8T2y2KBnh8QDn5lRBwM8_0kt_onPVal9_xt/s1600/arrows-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxeZzgN9S8gOCMrDZM32hH_HijOl5BqAfd7AF4COj9YXd_h2_NdkmwjEmRI0q-4odXakKaa4wmW0ME-UAq_9elTos3R6wXk_B5cEhFn6Z_o8T2y2KBnh8QDn5lRBwM8_0kt_onPVal9_xt/s1600/arrows-4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">whack along the grain to remove excess between kerfs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>You may need something more substantial in locations where you are going to hang something heavy on the strawbale walls (like kitchen cabinets or a heavy bookcase). In this case, I would sew a longer ledger (made from a 2x4 or 2x6) that is almost as long as whatever you are hanging. Drill an even number of holes in the ledger every 8 to 12 inches. The holes need to be big enough to get your strawbale needles through. Sew a long piece of baling twine through the first hole and all the way through the strawbale wall. Send the twine back through the strawbale wall approximately 8 to 12 inches away along your board (whatever your hole spacing is). Feed the baling twine back through the strawbales and through the next hole in your ledger board. Push tightly on the ledger board, pull the twine very very tight, and tie off the two ends of twine together. (You can use the same knot you use to resize bales.) Repeat this for each pair of holes in your ledger board. This nailer will be very strong! <br />
<br />
You can also sew small items to the strawbale walls by using a wood or plywood washer (as shown below). Make sure your twine wraps into the kerf cuts, and tie everything very tightly, so that the washer pulls into the face of the straw.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADJnJFt9ci61Fd7pQgUZ3iPeyfyLrtESPxMS2Syic3Aw6oqLCyCoWw5G9jABUnuITA32e8DKeLi8g-ySfUGEs9Jo69HegS6Hy3pvOfRjxhPpPyW9OEfRaTZcV00MLiV-RTtY9CXBVDAcX/s1600/SB-washer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADJnJFt9ci61Fd7pQgUZ3iPeyfyLrtESPxMS2Syic3Aw6oqLCyCoWw5G9jABUnuITA32e8DKeLi8g-ySfUGEs9Jo69HegS6Hy3pvOfRjxhPpPyW9OEfRaTZcV00MLiV-RTtY9CXBVDAcX/s1600/SB-washer.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">wood or plywood "washer" for strawbale walls</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="blogger-post-footer">www.buildnaturally.com</div>Sigi Kokohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02416038446988725892noreply@blogger.com0